--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:
>
> > Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a
burden
> to
> > the delicate process.
>
> why??? its just one more stage for a good board
> and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage
>
> so no need for heat as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to
> produce very hard carbon deposits
>
> so it takes a stage away while introducing one
>
>
> >
> > I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the
> board
> > before you print. Somehow coat the board with a chemical that
will
> let
> > the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the
> copper.
> >
>
> im not so sure your right here
>
>
> > If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be
> real
> > handy right now.
> >
>
> ye and im pretty sure he will agree with me
> {i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }
>
> finger oil is much like any oil it forms
> hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes
>
> but copper areas wont be affected atall
>
>
> well its worth a go
> ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
> {cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}
>
> so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic
stowawaybox}
> and a little oil burner pad for burning oil
>