Mike,
No problem, I have also been making boards for many years.
Just assume when someone tells me it can be better "I would like to know
what can be better than the really good results I'm getting now "
Why would I need to improve on really nice boards... ?
or do you see something really bad with
http://hans-w.com/pcb_harwin_rivets.jpgHans W
Mike Putnam wrote:
> Hans,
> Don't take it wrong. I have been in the business for many years and
> only
> wanted to give you some tips. Feel free to ignore them.
> -Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hans Wedemeyer" <hans@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2003 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] How I make my PCBs
>
>
> > Mike,
> > H'mm as I have pretty good looking boards and can do 5 mil all day
> long
> > !
> >
> > Here's an example http://hans-w.com/pcb_harwin_rivets.jpg
> >
> > I've only been using Round Bulbs of various types for about 27
> > years......
> > I like the short exposure time and never have noticed the effect you
>
> > menitoned, my largest board size
> > is about 6"X7" and it exposed uniformly.
> >
> > Just what is it about my boards that you think would make them any
> > better ? Please explain !
> >
> > Hans Wedemeyer
> >
> >
> > Mike Putnam wrote:
> >
> > > Hans,
> > > I looked at the picture of your UV exposure setup. I just wanted
> to
> > > comment
> > > that I would never use the round bulb. Use the florescent tubes
> and
> > > your
> > > results will be better. I have found that the round bulb tends to
> give
> > > more
> > > exposure in the center than at the outer edges. Even more apparent
>
> > > with
> > > larger boards. This is the reason all exposure units sold on the
> > > market use
> > > the florescent tube. You can compensate somewhat by having the
> bulb
> > > not so
> > > close, but this just increases your exposure time. The other bad
> thing
> > > about
> > > the round bulb is the heat. This will actually get in the way of
> your
> > > process, depending upon what type of photo etch you are using. I
> am
> > > trying
> > > to recall if it was a problem caused to the developer or if it was
> a
> > > consistency problem in the exposure. Nevertheless, I found it to
> be a
> > > problem several years back. If you modify your design to use the
> > > florescent
> > > bulbs, you will notice a marked difference in detail as well as
> less
> > > exposure time needed.
> > > -Mike
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Hans Wedemeyer" <hans@...>
> > > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2003 7:41 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] How I make my PCBs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Leon,
> > > > good advice except for Easy-PC....
> > > > I spent full price on that program and found I wasted my money.
> > > > Here's what I think of Easy-PC
> > > > http://hans-w.com/ezpcbugs.html
> > > >
> > > > I moved on to EAGLE and have been happy with it. It's STABLE
> does
> > > not
> > > > blow up cause me to lose work=time=money.
> > > >
> > > > A limited version of EAGLE is available for Free, it is limited
> to
> > > two
> > > > sided board and size check it out at
> > > > http://www.cadsoftusa.com
> > > > EAGLE has a VAST library of part and users add parts all the
> time.
> > > > Compared EAGLE parts Library to to Easy-PC several 1000 to 1
> > > >
> > > > I put Easy-PC up for sale on eBay but none wanted it. In fact I
> put
> > > my
> > > > entire collection of Numberone product in the same auction
> > > > Filter program, Easy-PC for DOS and for Windows and the digital
> > > > simulator Pulsar. INo one reached my minimum Price of $200 !
> It's
> > > still
> > > > here in a box onthe floor, I think I'll use the disks and CD's
> for
> > > > target practice sometime...
> > > >
> > > > Here's one thing that is not (was not)( they may have fixed it
> by
> > > now)
> > > > possible to do with Easy-PC for Wndows, in a situation where top
> and
> > >
> > > > bottom layers have parallel tracks sections that overlap, and a
>
> > > whole
> > > > bunch of closely spaced via's or other pads, it is not possible
> to
> > > put
> > > > the cursor on the trace/pad that I want for move/edit. It just
> snaps
> > > to
> > > > the nearest and of course that is not handy at all ! I can turn
> snap
> > > off
> > > > but that is not what it's all about.
> > > > EAGLE allows ANY pad/trace on any layer to be individually
> selected
> > > even
> > > > if they are overlapping.
> > > >
> > > > Pulsonix used to look like Easy-PC, I think they are the same
> > > bunch...
> > > > Although Pulsonix used to give the schematic editor away for
> free,
> > > the
> > > > PCB layout part is high $$$$ ! That's much like saying "this
> car is
> > >
> > > > free, but the special wheel cost $20,000 each "
> > > >
> > > > I'll get off my soap boix now...
> > > >
> > > > I make double side board all the time. I used to do it the way
> you
> > > > mentioned, and even wrote a program for my CNC mill to
> compensate
> > > for
> > > > alignment problems.
> > > > I found a better way by printing on transparencies and then
> aligning
> > >
> > > > them visually, then stapling them together. Then slide the board
> in
> > > > between the transparencies and sandwich the whole lot between
> two
> > > plates
> > > > of glass, and place the sandwich between two lamps
> > > > http://hans-w.com/setupforexposure.jpg
> > > > and
> > > > http://hans-w.com/twolampexposure.jpg
> > > > Credit for this sandwich idea goes to
> > > > http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
> > > >
> > > > Alignment between top and bottom is good. Perhaps the greatest
> > > problem
> > > > I've run into is the HP LaserJet making different print sizes
> when I
> > >
> > > > mirror the one side.
> > > > I used to worry about getting the printed side of the
> transparency
> > > close
> > > > to the PCB, after testing with 5 mil lines I decided there is NO
>
> > > need to
> > > > mirror. Using the exposure as I how in my photo it allows me to
> do 5
> > > mil
> > > > lines all day everyday.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for all the tips.
> > > > Best Regards
> > > > Hans Wedemeyer
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Leon Heller wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I've been making my own PCBs at home for about 40 years,
> starting
> > > by
> > > > > painting the pattern onto single-sided PCB material using a
> fine
> > > > > paintbrush and cellulose paint, with ferric chloride or
> ammonium
> > > > > persulphate etchant. I used 0.1" graph paper for designing the
>
> > > layout
> > > > > then marked the holes with a centre punch through the paper
> onto
> > > the
> > > > > copper surface. I even made a couple of double-sided PCBs
> using
> > > this
> > > > > technique, by masking off one side, etching the other side,
> > > drilling
> > > > > it,
> > > > > and using the drill holes as a guide when painting on the
> resist
> > > on
> > > > > the
> > > > > second side. I then masked off the first side with tape to
> etch
> > > the
> > > > > second side.
> > > > >
> > > > > When low-cost CAD software became available (I used Easy-PC
> from
> > > > > Number
> > > > > One Systems for years) I progressed to printing 2:1 artwork on
> a
> > > dot
> > > > > matrix printer. I then got a local litho platemaking company
> to
> > > > > produce
> > > > > a 1:1 positive transparency that I used with a home-made UV
> > > exposure
> > > > > unit and resist-coated PCB material. When I got an ink jet
> printer
> > > I
> > > > > found that I could get reasonable results by printing 1:1
> artwork
> > > onto
> > > > >
> > > > > tracing paper.
> > > > >
> > > > > I now use an old LaserJet IIIp I picked up very cheaply to
> print
> > > 1:1
> > > > > onto LaserStar film and expose the PCBs in a home-made UV
> exposure
> > >
> > > > > unit.
> > > > > I sometimes use tracing paper (nice and cheap), but find that
> I
> > > get
> > > > > better results from the LaserStar film. The CAD software I use
> is
> > > > > Pulsonix, a professional package out of the same stable as
> > > Easy-PC. I
> > > > > regularly use 12/12 design rules, occasionally going down to
> 10
> > > mils
> > > > > if
> > > > > I need to route tracks between IC pads. Rather than
> conventional
> > > > > positive-resist FR4 PCB material, I usually use something
> called
> > > > > FPC-16
> > > > > which consists of a sandwich of compressed paper between thin
> > > layers
> > > > > of
> > > > > fibreglass. It's cheaper than FR4 and much easier to cut and
> > > drill.
> > > > > It's
> > > > > available from Mega Electronics, as is the LaserStar film.
> > > > >
> > > > > Etching is in ferric chloride. I place the etchant in a small
> > > plastic
> > > > > food container inside a larger container half-filled with hot
> > > water
> > > > > and
> > > > > continuously agitate the etchant manually by rocking the
> > > container.
> > > > > Etching typically takes 5-10 minutes.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm quite pleased with the results. I intend to experiment
> with
> > > > > double-sided boards by making a UV exposure unit that can
> expose
> > > both
> > > > > sides of the PCB simultaneously. With a better printer and
> vacuum
> > > on
> > > > > the
> > > > > UV exposure unit I think I could get 8 mil tracks quite
> reliably.
> > > I've
> > > > >
> > > > > heard of other people managing it at home.
> > > > >
> > > > > Here is an example of one of my PCBs:
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/pcb.html
> > > > >
> > > > > I often use the Pulsonix copper pour facility for this type of
>
> > > board,
> > > > > as
> > > > > it makes the routing easier. Cross-hatching is better with a
> laser
> > >
> > > > > printer, as they don't tend to print large black areas very
> well.
> > > > >
> > > > > Links:
> > > > >
> > > > > Mega Electronics: http://www.megaelect.demon.co.uk/
> > > > > Number One Systems: http://www.numberone.com/
> > > > > Pulsonix: http://www.pulsonix.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Leon
> > > > > --
> > > > > Leon Heller, G1HSM
> > > > > leon_heller@...
> > > > > http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
> > > > >
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