Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

Yes, Steve said that a thin PCB 20 mils can pass without
modification and Steve is correct- that works fine. I will answer
and comment about the method:

1. Thank you Steve for letting us know about the C84 and mispro ink.
I followed your advice and while I had a hard time to follow it, it
was a very good info.

2. I duplicated all Steves experiments and I can tell you that teh
PCBs generated in that manner resemble near photo quality. The
method is fast (I can have a PCB in 20 minutes etched) and it seems
to be a bit better in quality than TT. Regrefully there are many
variables and Zoran actually had a point in this case but than again
I disagree with Zoran on photochemical being simple-- yes it is
simple if you buy sensitized PCBs ($$) but if you make them.. I can
write a dissertation if there is a demand)

3. What is wrong with printing on copper? The method is really cool.
You stick a PCB and off you have the pattern that can be heated up
and etched. Well, the printer C84 is $itty.I got one and learned on
it. Freeing up the heads is not for everyone. In fact not knowing
hte reader I can tell it is not for you... BS on the net about
cleaning is just that-BS. Having that C84 I then decided to use it
for learning about sheet metal. I reade and reread Steves directions
about nibbling on it and the results was I finally took a
reciprocating saw and cut above the slot. Now what? You have to
mount it so that it is true in three planes and true for CNC means
different trueness than for making wood cabinets. Bottom line is:
you won't be able to mount that cut off front rail so it holds its
position today and tomorrow. No way. If you have so much metal
talent I suggest sticking that head on a cnc machine that Dave will
have in January and now you've got something going!

4. So the good news is: you do not have to touch the sheet metal and
can remove few plastic parts and start sliding PCBs of 20mils or
thinner, right? Sort of. Like I said the printer is $itty.

5. But there is a light in a tunnel. People like morons keep buying
those poor quality printers C84 on ebay for big $$$s. They don't
know that they can have a brand new printer C88+ from CompUSA for
$80 and actually with some discounts for much less. Brand new. It is
the same printer jus brand new. As a reminder C86 also is the same
printer but also $itty quality.

5. So now you have a brand new C88+ and are ready to buy the inks.
You bought the inks, you isntalled the chips with the gooball and
are ready to print. Surprise! My c88+ printed crooked! I took it
apart and what happened? The pad looked like a used cotex, but with
black ink. I swear, those people at Epson sell rufubished printers!
I saw ink all over inside, I saw plastic parts labelled 'resprayed'.
Maybe collection of early engineering prototypes? Times are tough
for everyone, I guess. I used that printer for experiments: I warn
you, stay away from cutting metal. I was printing all right, but
getting anything resembling a pattern was impossible.

5. Another C88+ another day. I printed mispro ink. Frankly, IMO
misproinks might be a solution for some but the quality of colors is
unacceptable. Those people at mispro are color blind that they don't
see that they don't resemble epson colors. Stay away from mispro if
you want to have quality colors.

6. But all we care is that secret ingredient in yellow in magenta,
so who cares. I finally got C88+ printing, made the famous cut in
side (thank you Steve, that helped, great job you did!) and was very
happy. Heating it is no problem but takes some experimenting, no
biggie. The PCBs are etch resistant, except for the very thin traces
have tendency to underetch. Now: let'sention one thing: what I like
in a PCB is not what you like in a PCB> I am talking about
complelxity on the level of a PCB in desktop PC, ok? And that type
is achieveable with ease with, I would say 99% accuracy. Almost
photo quality.

7. So what seems to be the prblem? Well, few days later I revisited
teh experiment and the print head was clogged- ina brand new
printer. Cleaning, etc.. came out better but still for a brand new
printer it is surprising that Epson engineers don't have it in grip.

I am disappointed with the drying out ink when printer is not in use
and that pretty much disqualifies teh method unless you know youa re
printing daily and I hope it is often enough.
I don't have that problem with a laminator.

It amazes me that I read discussions on Make of people excited about
it, without understanding that even a brand new printer is not a
solutionn for printing PCBs. Was fun to try it but it is not a good
solution. It is probably the same problem liek with the plotter pens
that always dried out except here you cannot run the cartriges dry-
that mispro misfit is expensive. I feel sorry for peole who try to
make a living pinting on inkjet printers large size prints- there's
got to be a better way.

So who is going to present the next innovation?
Mike