wow, this sounds as a DIY drill is a complete nonsense...
---
JanRwl@... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/7/2006 6:24:44 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> rwskinner@... writes:
>
> What do you reckon a person could build there own PCB Drill for, if they had
>
> to buy all the components?
>
>
>
> If you have the TIME to read through hundreds of "ad pages" in magazines and
>
> buy and try steppers and hardware offered, and have patience to live-over
> having wasted much money, and you are a VERY good hunter of such goodies,
> you
> might cobble something almost-useful for $1000. But if you want to have
> SOME
> success within weeks of beginning, so buy KNOWN-USEFUL steppers and good
> drives like the Xylotex or Gecko drives, and can design a decent buffer PCB
> with
> at least a 74HCT541 and preferably a 74HCT02, etc., for "motor-on/off
> latch,"
> etc., and want it to WORK well, you will need at least Bishop-Wisecarver
> rails and ball-bearing "V-wheels", and/or Thomson or equiv. linear ball
> bearings
> and hardened round-ways, and know HOW to mount all that properly. You will
> also need some decent quill-motor like a Proxon, or, if you are creative, a
> 400 Hz. 3-ph. motor with 1/8" collet/nut on its shaft, VERY precisely
> mounted
> to that shaft, and a 400 Hz. inverter circuit to power that. But this
> high-freq. approach DOES take some experience with things-electronic, though
> the
> result is FAR superior to a "brush motor" (aka "universal motor"). Also,
> you
> can get away with GOOD ACME screws and PRELOADED Turcite (glass-filled
> Teflon) nuts from one of the "precision screw makers" like Ball Screws and
> Actuators or a couple of others, names I cannot recall as I have never
> actually used
> other makes of screws.
>
> Plan on using excellent cabinetmaking expertise and Baltic birch plywood for
>
> the carcass, and preferably light-colored Formica for the top, so
> double-stick "poster tape" will work well thereon, without doing damage. It
> takes some
> years of fiddling with such to be able to cobble something that works OK, if
>
> you are just beginning to brew your own such machinery.
>
> After all that, if you do not waste and build efficiently, you might do it
> for less than $2000. I am envisioning "about what I have in MY PCB drill",
> and what I'd do differently, were I to do an all-new one, and I am CERTAINLY
>
> not including all the "learning expenses" of 35 years of home-brewing.
>
> Carbide PCB drill-bits INSIST upon slop-free movement, and logic that
> ENSURES the drill is UP and STEADY before moving to the next X,Y begins, and
> STEADY
> for drilling. Jan Rowland
>
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