Oops. It was Office Depot paper I used. (I should have known; my
wife bought it :)
Anyway, it was SKU 652-001, Office Depot High Gloss Photo Paper, UPC
7-35854-98034-4, 69# (260 gm/m2) It has a distinctly plastic surface
that is very shiny and a distinctly not-plastic surface that is
slightly matte. I printed on the matte side on an HP LaserJet 5000 at
RET Max and Toner Density 5. Ironed for 4 minutes at halfway between
Cotton and Linen, then cooled it, peeled the plastic surface away,
soaked for 5 minutes and peeled the paper away.
Donald.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> dhlocker:
>
> Thanks for the comments.
>
> I have noticed that the back side of the Office Max paper is just
slightly
> less glossy than the front side, so, as you have experienced,
either side
> will probably work. Next time I use the Office Max paper, I'll try
> the backside.
>
> I think the active agent here is a polished clay coat, and the
Office Max
> paper might just be polished more on one side than the other, but
both sides
> are clay coated.
>
> The paper experts among us can correct me if I'm wrong in this
assumption.
>
> I'm still stuck on the idea that the toner plays an important part
in this
> scheme, and that various toner compounds react differently with respect
> to how well they bond to the paper. A really strong bond might present
> problems when removing the paper. Whereas a less strong bond will
> allow easy paper removal. It seems that I did read somewhere about the
> various compositions of laser toner compounds.
>
> Like yourself, I have always used the litho negative/photoresist
> technology, and am pleased as Punch not to have to go through
> that rain dance anymore! Not to mention getting rid of that
> messy ferric chloride slime.
>
> Most of my stuff is strictly hobby or prototyping, and the
> laser jet toner technique is just fine for my applications.
>
> Regards,
>
> Roland F. Harriston