the laser jet IIID is very, very old.. but in my opinion it is the best printer ever built by hp.
i have several dremel like tools, but i don't like its brush assy. as this is from a cheap device the
brushs tend do get loose and are then shooted at me at very high velocity. i don't like this. only used
once.
but i will no longer use steel wool (but i'm not really sure if there really pour particles in).
i may try it with inkjet photo paper.. but if the paper doesn't stick enough then the toner gets off at
fusing assy output or the following transport assy which also has some brush..
so it has to stick enough. i encountered these problems when trying the kitchen baking paper.
The temperature doesn't seem to be a problem. i set the iron to highest on last try and the toner fused
well. i maybe didn't soke it enough. but the most problem is i think that my printer puts not enough
toner on the paper (also leaving pinholes). i also had this problems with ohp film (and partly because
of this want to abandon using phototransfer process).
i see i really have to do some experimenting, also copying the artwork with different copiers i have
easy acess (have two at home but not working....) maybe the toner layer of the copiers is thicker when
set to darkest.
but i have a bit a fear of a too thick toner layer which may widen the track due to pressure and heat
during fusing - can this happen?
okay, further experimenting maybe tomorrow.. thanks for hints..
regards
stefan
17.04.2003 19:43:09, "rolanyang" <
rolan@...> wrote:
>You definitely need to use some sort of abrasive for cleaning.
>Alcohol isn't likely going to remove the oxidized layer from
>the surface.
>
>I am lazy, so I use a Dremel roto-tool and the steel brush
>attachment to give the whole board a quick polish before
>doing my ironing.
>
>What brand of laser printer are you using?
>I have heard that newer laser printers use a lower-temp toner, whereas the old HP Laserjet II's (the
one I have) require
>a very high temperature to melt the toner.
>The toner formula may have something to do with it's
>ability to stick to the copper. I have not experimented
>with this, so I don't know for sure.
>
>~Rolan
>
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
>>
>> i have cleaned the board with alcohol, as it was quite new i guessed this would be enough. next time
i
>> may give it a rub with steel wool and see if it gets better.
>>
>
>
>
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