Thanks!
Does anyone know what the hottest hand iron on the market is? Are older
models that might be available on Ebay hotter than the ones available today?
I found that even with a paper towel over the Epson paper, I wasn't able to
slide the iron around on the board so all I could do was just press down.
Any idea as to why I couldn't slide the iron around? I'm thinking about
putting a piece of cloth over it next time.
The traces printed so nicely on the Epson paper that I really want to make
it work with the transfer.
_____
From:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Herbert E. Plett
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:34 PM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner Transfer Paper
--- Mark Mickelsen <
mark.mickelsen@...> wrote:
> I tried the Epson glossy photo paper with my ML-2010 printer. It takes
the
> printed image beautifully but the toner doesn't transfer to the copper
very
> well. I put a piece of paper towel over it so that the iron wouldn't
stick
my first thought is either you printed too light, or the iron was not hot
enough. I measured abt. 225C (440F) on the iron when it clicked back on.
> and then heated it several minutes with the iron. I let it cool and then
> soaked it in hot water and about half of the traces didn't stick to the
> copper. I had scoured the board with a Scotchbrite pad and then rubbed it
> thoroughly with acetone. Should I have done something else to prepare the
> board? Can anyone see anything that I did wrong? What procedure do you
> follow to make the Epson paper "work like a charm"?
it also can be the board is not really clean and rough.
I use a cream (local brand of no use to you) that contains a soft abrasive
(fine sand?), detergent and clorine and is used for pan and pot scrubbing.
With
little water scrub the board until shiny (and scratched), rinse well under
running tap water and dry with kitchen paper towel... look: no distilled
water,
lintfree cloth or alcohol, nothing fancy, but keep from touching after rinse
and TT immediately as scratched copper tends to rust very fast in air.
I use acetone based nail polish remover to remove toner from failed and
etched
boards. Most failures are because of misalignments because I use to 'save'
on
PCB by sizing and shaping it before TT and the edge traces fall off board.
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