--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
...
> I don't know if Tarnex is really "Key" to this process. In reality
> if it is, I would probably do a pre-etch first and then try the
> printing and such. I am pretty darn sure that all that is needed is
> to clean the pre-existing chemicals and preservatives off the board
> prior to printing. I would wager to say that we will be able to use
> our existing prep-methods to do the printing.
I guess we'll see. After reading Stefan's post, I'd hope we don't
require Tarn-X.
> I have a hunch there are two key elements to this whole ink-jet
> printing thing..
>
> 1) The proper type of ink - solvent based as opposed to water based
> and pigmented as opposed to dyes.
The ink Volkan is using is water based. To put solvent based ink into
a desktop printer would require some work to convert it. The heads are
safe, it is the other parts that may not be compatible. There are
dozens of kinds of solvent ink, too, and it's typically only available
in large containers for large format printers.
> 2) Curing that ink so that it doesn't wash away.
It may be a simple matter of just assuring that it is completly dry.
See my previous posts about the slowness of inkjet ink drying.
> The little bit of playing around I did with the durabrite ink
> with "Bone stock" PCB material showed me that it not only adheres,
> but it doesn't bead up or puddle like the other inks.
I'd actually prefer it be the MIS ink, as Durabrite formulation keeps
changing between Epson models. So if you have a C84 that works, a C82
or C80 or C86 or C88 may not work as well or at all. But the MIS ink
you can put in any Epson printer.
Steve Greenfield