Hmmm, this is interesting!
I let the board etch until I really felt it was "done". With that
yellow ink, it is very tough to tell the "masked" areas once the
etchant gets on the board. But, it looks as though I can see the
bristle lines from the coarse brush I used. The solid area I
covered appears to be solid.
I am running another test right now. This time I pre-etched the
board just for 10 seconds or so - to remove the gloss. I then got
some more ink out of the cartridge and wrote my name with a short
piece of solder that I was dipping into the puddle. Using a
sharpie, I drew a square box around that so I would know where to
look. I also did another "Flood fill" area to see how it works
again in that.
I really think this is going to work guys - more in a few minutes!
Chris
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
>
> Well, in about 10~15 minutes we should know something, what, I
don't
> know :-)
>
> I got some ink out of that cartridge. I used a piece of wire to
> smear some around on the PCB board. I also shook it to get a few
> drops out and used a coarse brush to "paint it" on the board.
Using
> two sample boards....
>
> 1) I hit with the heat gun for a few seconds to make sure the ink
> was dry.
>
> 2) didn't do anything special - just let the ink air dry for a few
> minutes.
>
> Do not expect positive results though. This is yellow ink, and
> being yellow it won't have much pigment in it like the black stuff
> has. Which is why I think certain color sharies work bettter than
> others.
>
> To answer stefans main question and the one I too suspected would
be
> a problem - beading. Nope, I could not see any evidence that this
> ink would bead up.
>
> I also did not do anything the to PCB material. It was a cut off
> piece that I know is pretty decent quality as I just etched a few
> other boards from it a few days ago.
>
> I am etching in ferric chloride so that is the etchant for my test.
>