--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "soffee83" <soffee83@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" <kilocycles@>
> wrote:when I etched, the Sharpie areas etched away much more than
>the
> >toner-covered areas (can't
>
> I get that a bit as well. I'm usually extra careful now to let the
>wet
> Sharpie crap dry thoroughly, and then redraw over top of it once or
> twice, until it's nice and "dense" looking. I sometimes use a
>regular
> "fat-tipped" marker for wide stuff too.
I have found that the Sharpie CD markers leave a denser ink than
standard sharpie markers. The older kind seem to work better, but the
current ones they have out still work better than 'plain' sharpies
I use Faber-Castell Multi-Mark 1523 Permanent markers for fine detail
touchup. It seems to hold up well. I used to use DecoArt 'No-Prep
Metal Paint' (craft store, not sure if Wal-Mart has it) with an extra
fine paintbrush before I found these markers (as even XF sharpies are
not fine enough). The metal paint should work better for larger areas
than any marker though. It comes off with acetone along with the
toner.
> I was wondering if there were any easy techniques for masking really
> large areas, like the whole back side, for instance? Seems like it
> might help for doing double-sided stuff, if you could hit it one at
a
> time, while covering the other side with tape,etc. I hate trying to
> protect the delicate toner work on one side during all the pressing
> and heating for the second one.
>
> -George
I mentioned before, I use Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch oil based
spraypaint to do the 'back' side of brass when I etch stencils, etc. A
little acetone, and it'll bubble up and you can peel it right off once
it dries back out a little bit. Not sure how this would affect the
fiberglass part of the board. Just let it dry for two days or there'll
be wet paint residue under it (which you can wipe right off with an
acetone soaked towel). Don't use latex paint. If it hardens too much,
it's very difficult to remove.