Kevin,
Until I say the last photo, I was stunned at how evenly positioned
your holes were! I get a daily email digest from the group, so I
hadn't seen your mill yet. That's really something. Looking through
the files the other day, I saw some other really impressive CNC-type
machines. I cannot comprehend the ability of an individual to produce
something like that, even though I spent over 30 years in engineering!
By the way, the transfers looked superb as well!
Cheers,
Ted
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Morgan" <prizes@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ted,
>
> I posted a couple of pictures to the group.
>
> http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/browse/a89e?c=
>
> The board layout uses some very wide traces because I wasn't really
> expecting the results to be that good. I think the traces are 25 mil
> or 30 mil. There is some very fine lettering at the bottom of the
> board that did not transfer completely, but I did not expect that to
> come out at all, so it was a pleasant surprise.
>
> I used the same method for the top markings, but they show an
> incomplete transfer. I think that's because I didn't really make much
> of an effort to prepare the surface, and if it was important to me, I
> would have redone it.
>
> I don't know if 1/16'th is the thickest the laminator can handle, but
> it's probably as thick as I'm ever going to use.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" <kilocycles@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Kevin,
> > Gee, I paid more than that for the 2040! I think I'll invest in a
> > laminator rather than trying to find an iron that doens't have steam
> > holes. Something tells me that the only one I'd be able to find
> these
> > days with no steam capability would be an antique that you heat in
> the
> > fireplace!
> >
> > Do you think that 1/16"-thick PCB stock is about the thickest the
> > laminator can handle? Please share your future results with the
> > group. I'll start looking for a laminator; I believe that there are
> > some additional recommendations here in the group files.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Ted
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Morgan" <prizes@>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Tonight I got very good results with a Brother 2040 laser that I
> got
> > > recently. I used Kodak Ultimate Picture Paper, and a Techno
> LM1910
> > > laminator.
> > >
> > > The paper is some that I've had sitting around for a couple of
> years...
> > > borderless 4x6. The laser printer and laminator I bought at Fry's
> over
> > > the holidays. I forget the exact price, but I think it was a
> little
> > > over $100 for both.
> > >
> > > After scrubbing the board with 2000 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, I
> ran
> > > the paper through the laminator 4 times on the highest heat
> setting,
> > > and on the "foil" setting. The board was 1/16" single sided that
> I
> > > bought from MPJA. The laminator didn't really choke on the board,
> > > although I suspect it's not really designed for something that
> thick. I
> > > had put the picture paper and board inside a folded sheet of
> ordinary
> > > laser printer paper.
> > >
> > > After the four passes, the Kodak picture paper was stuck to the
> laser
> > > printer paper, and also the board. After dunking in cold water, I
> > > carefully peeled off the picture paper (it took about 20 seconds,
> I
> > > think). It came off cleanly, leaving almost all of the toner on
> the
> > > board.
> > >
> > > I'm not that experienced with TT, so I don't know how repeatable
> this
> > > is, but I'm very happy with this experiment.
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > ---snip---
> >
>