Now you've just made me mad, Patrick! I bought a new laser printer
specifically to do PCBs, and I chose the Brother HL-2040 over the same
HP at the same price because of the cost of toner cartridges, 2400
dpi-interpolated resolution, and I'm not happy about it! You're
getting good-quality PCB transfers, and I'm not!
I've got one more method to try; I'm getting a couple of inkjet
transparencies to try with it. Also, something someone said regarding
using a cloth or paper towel over between the iron and the
transparency is something I'm going to try with the Press and Peel
Blue sheets that I still have. I'm thinking that the pinholes (a LOT
of them in foil-filled areas) may partially be due to uneven contact
between the PCB and the bottom ot the iron due to slight ridges around
the edges of the board from cutting it with my long tin shears. I get
some areas of very good transfer, and some with serious problems.
I may need to revisit my board prep procedures as well, following the
ideas that have been posted here. Basically, I've been using a
"greenie" fibre cleaner, and an acetone wipe, and that's it.
I'm glad your boards are working out well, Patrick.
Cheers,
Ted
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Cambre
<braincambre500@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Pete,
>
> I just bought (Friday) an HP 1020 Laser Printer from
> Office Depot.
>
> The results are amazing. I am using the toner transfer
> method with HP Inkjet Photo Paper
> (C1846A/Glossy/8.5mil/175g/m2 47lb/25 sheets).
>
> I run it through the laser printer one time, then I
> use my iron for one minute on the highest setting. In
> between the PCB and iron is a single sheet of paper.
> Underneatht the PCB is about 5 sheets of paper, to
> keep my table to getting too hot!
>
> Yes, no pin-holes, no bleeding, no nothing...except a
> very, hard to get off, toner attached to the PCB!
>
> a friend, Patrick
---snip---