Hello again Sir Dennis,
Well, I found out how to make all the toner stay on the PCB. I decided
to use my HP Photo Paper. A perfect PCB the very first time!
I want to thank you for guiding me as you did. If it were not for you,
I would never have decided to get the printer and try it out!
There is no bleeding, and there is absolutely no breaks anywhere.
Imagine that. Now I do not have to mail order for anything.
Yes, again, thank you very much for taking the time to come to my
concerns!!
...your friend, Patrick
P.S. Oh yes, my website is at...
http://braincambre500.freeservers.comShould you fancy any of the projects, I will surely come to your aid,
in helping you through any of them, my good friend!
...and let our journeys continue ! ! !
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "braincambre500"
<braincambre500@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Dennis,
>
> Well, I tried many a' times...but I seem to not get all of the toner
> off of the transparency. I went 10 seconds, then 30 seconds, then 1
> minutes, then 2 minutes, then 5 minutes, and even 10 minutes. But the
> toner seems to break away in parts from the transparency.
>
> I am using laser color transparencies...not black and white. Also it's
> not inkject transparency.
>
> Could that be the culprit?
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Patrick,
> >
> > I use Eagle Lite. That version will do small double sided boards
> > free. Download from http://www.eaglesoft.de/freeware
> >
> > Prep your boards the normal way
> >
> > Put board on a block of wood covered with a doubled paper towel
> >
> > Set iron to cotton/wool setting with no steam (you need to
> > experiment with correct temp.
> >
> > Place board on board, align artwork (trimmed to slightly larger than
> > board), cover with another doubled paper towel (be careful not to
> > let transparency slip)
> >
> > Apply iron for 20-30 seconds. Gently lift from one corner making
> > sure to hold down transparency while lifting paper towel.
> > Transparency will usually stick but will stop after transparency
> > gets it's fill of paper fibers.
> >
> > Iron and check progress every 30 seconds or so to see when toner is
> > melting. You need to get it all melted, but not so much that it
> > smears badly. Watch for traces that are starting to spread and
> > don't let pad holes close completely.
> >
> > When you think things are melted well enough, remove the board from
> > the block of wood and set it aside to cool.
> >
> > Start your next transfer if you have more.
> >
> > When the first board has cooled to the touch, but is still warm,
> > peel the trasparency from the board; starting at one corner. If
> > little or no toner stays on the transparency, you're done.
> >
> > If a lot of toner stays on the transparency, stop peeling as soon as
> > you notice that. Iron more and try again.
> >
> > Once the transparency has been removed, you may notice some residue
> > from the transparency. Clean this off with soap, water, and a
> > toothbrush. You don't need to do this under running water. Wet the
> > board, apply some soap (I use liquid hand soap), scrub the board
> > thoroughly (shouldn't have any problems with toner being removed),
> > rinse board, blot dry and store in plastic bag until ready to etch.
> >
> > That's it.
> >
> > I cut and paste my design and array (panelize) it so it fills as
> > much of the transparency as possible. I leave enough empty space
> > for a 1" boarder around the perimeter and 0.3 inches or so between
> > patterns. Keep your fingers off the toner side and store them where
> > they won't collect dust.
> >
> > Make sure there's no dust on the board or transparency when you
> > start transfering.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Dennis
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "braincambre500"
> > <braincambre500@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Sir Dennis,
> > >
> > > Yes, I just got back from Office Depot and have in hand...
> > >
> > > an HP Laserjet 1020 printer
> > >
> > > +
> > >
> > > 50 pack of laserjet transparencies
> > >
> > > I am looking forward for tonight, as I will try my hand and
> > > iron...making my first toner transfer.
> > >
> > > Do give me some points, if you would, as I am presently making my
> > PCB
> > > design in my "Paint' Program in Windows 98. Is there a better
> > program
> > > to use?
> > >
> > > I always look forward to your great advice, as you have walked down
> > > the road, that I am about to embark!
> > >
> > > ...your friend, Patrick
> > >
> >
>