Hello my friend,
Yes, thank you for replying back so soon.
As far as you using inkjet transparancies in making
your PCBs...are you saying that you DO NOT use
pre-sensitive PCBs for this particular process...or
are using saying that use USE pre-sensitive PCBs in
putting your inkjet transparancies on the board?
Since I am a rookie in this form of transfer, my
questions are needed.
Patrick
--- dl5012 <
dl5012@...> wrote:
> Hi Patrick,
>
> I've tried a couple different laser printers and
> haven't noticed any
> difference in the transfers. I'm using a Lexmark
> Optra E+ that I
> picked up for $40 and am running with a toner
> refill. Pictures of a
> board I did this afternoon can be found here -
>
<
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/view/9984?b=1>
>
> I tried using the paper transfer method and had poor
> results. After
> experimenting with many types of paper, I started
> trying
> transparencies. I've settled on inket
> transparencies. One
> advantage with transparencies is it's easier to see
> if the toner is
> melting and easier to do double sided boards because
> you can see the
> artwork and can align better.
>
> The above link is a collage showing (clockwise from
> top left): 1)
> oner transfered to board - it's only 1.4" x 1.6",
> but I've done
> boards around 4 X 6 with the same results, 2)
> artwork on
> transparency, 3) transparency after toner transfer
> (no significant
> amount of toner left behind), and 4) the
> etched/drilled board.
>
> All traces are 16 mils. The border around the board
> is 10 mils. I
> don't do anything smaller because I try to make my
> boards as easy to
> transfer and etch as possible. I fill all of the
> open area to
> reduce etch time and save my etching solution. I
> remove the toner
> only from areas where I solder, leaving the rest as
> a poor man's
> solder mask.
>
> Before etching, I go over the fills with a fine tip
> black Sharpie
> (ultrafine and industrial don't work for me).
> Etching in ferric
> chloride gives the Sharpie ink a glossy finish.
>
> I use a clothes iron to transfer and I heat the
> toner to the point
> that it's starting to melt. I like to make my holes
> small and like
> the toner to start closing them so the holes serve
> as pilot holes
> during drilling. I use a dremel type drill in a
> stand with carbide
> bits. Before I had the stand, I used a hand held
> dremel tool and
> had no problems with breaking bits or getting the
> holes lined up.
> But it was a pain to keep the drill vertical.
>
> I have had poor results using laser copies.
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Cambre
>
> <braincambre500@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Sir Leon,
> >
> > In the future I will be buying a laser printer and
> > start making my PCB's using the tone transfer
> method.
> > Is this is what you are also using?
> >
> > a friend,
> >
> > Patrick
>
>
>
>
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