Steve,
In ferric chloride I have used the following pens with zero problems:
Avery Dennison MARKS-A-LOT Real handy for covering large area.
Miller Scratch Fix.
Sanford Sharpie Fine Point Item 13801
Sanford Sharpie series 30000
Sanford Sharpie ultra fine point Series 3700C red green blue and black
These do NOT degrade in ferric chloride. Once dry the ink is Brittle
i.e. will
scratch easy, but no more so than the resist.
Remove all of the above using denatured alcohol after etching is
complete.
Best regards
Hans W
Steve Greenfield wrote:
> Actually, there is a difference in pens. I tested some on a board I
> etched. The only one that lasted 100% intact for the entire etch
> time was the Staedler Lumocolor 313 red. A Sanford Laundry Marking
> pen was 2nd, about 75% intact. The rest that I tested were gone in
> a few minutes.
>
> Thin traces will get thinner the longer you leave it in the etch,
> as once it etches the copper away it starts to under-etch the
> edges.
>
> Steve Greenfield
>
> --- Hans Wedemeyer <hans@...> wrote:
> > Great... No you can let it dry and not etch for several days! If
> > you
> > wait too long the copper may oxidize and be more difficult to
> > etch.
> > Use a waterproof marker pen to touch up any mistakes etc. There
> > is no
> > magic to what kind of pen. a simple laundry marker works just
> > fine.
> > Best Regards
> > Hans W
> >
> > "ghidera2000 " wrote:
> >
> > > Have the etched board in my hand and its almost a beauty. One
> > small
> > > void in a trace thats about 0.15 wide and a bridge between a
> > pad and
> > > a trace. I think the bridge is because I took the board out a
> > few
> > > seconds too soon. No green apparent in it. I'll soak it a bit
> > longer
> > > after work.The rest looks perfect though, quite a shock to me
> > seeing
> > > as its only the second board!
> > >
> > > Does the etching solution harm the resist at all? Wondering how
> > > critical it is to get the board out of the etch at exactly the
> > right
> > > time.
>
>
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