Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "soffee83" <soffee83@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 10:34 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT - 1st time Roadmap to Success


> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alan00463" <alan00463@y...>
> wrote: Will an inkjet printer make white?
>
> Not any I've had here. :(
>
> After getting a laser for PCB's, I'm finally realizing how much I
> hated the inks. Even if I'm stuck to B&W, not having to constantly run
> out of ink is well worth the loss.
>
> I think the TRF is the safest way to go. It's only about 6 or 7 bucks
> a roll. If they haven't already popped in, someone in here answered a
> few questions for me a while back about it. They said it was more
> powdery, so it wasn't ideal for dual duty as a replacement for the
> green trace coating TRF, but should make good labels. Sorry I can't
> recall exactly who told me (I always appreciate the help).
>
> BTW- With the cutting, I've learned to go oversize on the initial
> boards. I usually do almost an eighth inch all around with some layout
> lines for subsequent trimming. I've had most of my trouble with
> foolishly placing thin runs near the edges. I either eat too close to
> them while trimming, or the board is of a slightly inconsistent
> thickness near the copper burrs at the edge, and doesn't take as solid
> of a transfer. It's also nice to have plenty of space around your
> mounting or standoff holes, to avoid having screws sitting on, or
> shorting anything, or not having enough board at the outside corners.

The Pulsonix software I use has a setting for the distance between tracks,
vias etc. and board edge. If there isn't enough clearance the design rule
checker tells me. I also deburr the edges, to make sure that the
transparency is in contact with the resist.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller