As i said those are old pictures.
The stop screw is now right at the drill clamp, so that it comes down on
the PCB. This holds the PCB down and it prevents the frame from beeing
tilted when reaching the stop and breaking the drill.
There is a counterweight clamped to the back of the frame, it is balanced
so that it just thinks down, but around neutral seems good so you have a
good feeling for the force.
Also, the bearing is not in the same hight as the drill tip, this prevents
it going in a perfect tangent. I now put a wood block under the PCB and
have angled the drill holder forward to make it straight again (this angle
is adjustable with a screw). The two red plastic rods are no longer used
to hold the drill, the front clamp is sufficient.
Added light and vacuum.
If i had to do it again, i would use two plates, the upper one triangular,
with a piano hinge at the back.
ST
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 20:21:24 +0100, alan00463 <alan00463@...> wrote:
> Thanks for the additional photos, Stefan. They're most helpful, as
>
> the time has come for me to build a rotating drill press. I see
>
> you're using an inverted wood screw as a downward limit to motion. I
>
> notice also that you have designed a simple fixture consisting of a
>
> horizontal 3/4 inch (20mm)hole to hold the tool's fitting collar and
>
> two horizontal woodscrews covered in rubber between which you wedge
>
> the tool's opposing handgrips.
>
>
> That's much simpler than the tool-holding fixture I first had in mind.
>
> Very nice design.
>
>
> Let me just ask you a couple of questions about your drill press:
>
>
> (1) When you position the rotary tool's bit above the workpiece and
>
> then let go of it, does the weight of the tool cause it to drop the
>
> bit downwards, or does the spring cause the bit to move upwards, or is
>
> it neutrally balanced? Does it matter?
>
>
> (2) If you were to remake a drill press, is there anything that you
>
> would do or make different?
>
>
> Alan