How about using a "T" shirt press? you know the items used to apply
decorative heat transfers to t shirts.
Bill Higdon
Adam Seychell wrote:
> Hi Tom
>
> twb8899 wrote:
>
>>Bob,
>>
>>Most of my boards are rather simple and single sided. I use dry film
>>photo resist on FR-4 (glass epoxy) and CEM-1 (paper base)laminates.
>
>
>
> I am wondering how you apply the dry film. I have a lot (30 meters x 16" roll) of dry film
> at home for making PCB's. Its excellent to use once it has been applied to the board. I
> made a rubber roller to apply the film on the board while cold. I then heat it in oven at
> 80°C for 10 minutes to get it sticking on really well. It's difficult to avoid wrinkles
> and air bubbles without a proper laminator. I find applying the film the most difficult.
>
> I once had a chance to buy a proper dry film laminator for fairly cheap at an auction, but
> the machine stood 2 meters tall and weighed couple hundred kilograms. This machine is ok
> if your laminating hundreds of panels in a single day, but for the hobbyist with limited
> sotrage space and money there has to be a better way.
>
>
>
>>I make my films using a machine called a photoplotter. This machine
>>takes the data from a CAD system and "draws" the image on
>>photographic film for a perfect image in a positive or negative
>>format. These films are known as a "phototool" in the industry.
>
>
> How does this photoplotter work ? I've heard that some use a red laser and scan across a
> rotating drum with the film wrapped around. I priced photoplotter film and its very
> expensive. I've remember you once mentioned that there is a lot of used PCB equipment on
> the market, are there any fairly cheap photoplotters around ? Are these machines too big
> for a home lab ?
>
>
>>I have never used the laser or ink jet methods but know others that
>>have had excellent results with these methods. I believe they use
>>some type of translucent paper for printing which will allow UV light
>>to pass through.
>
>
>
>>I still have a process camera but prefer the photoplotter because the
>>film is always perfect. If you look at a photoplotted film with a
>>microscope you will notice that it has excellent film density. There
>>are no gray areas. The film density goes from opaque black to clear
>>and back to black. It's difficult to get even the best cameras to
>>make films like this.
>
>
> I've looked at inkjet printers transparencies under a microscope and the line edges are
> very jagged. This is individual ink droplets scattered around the edges. There are no gray
> areas however. After I expose and develop the dry film and then look under a microscope I
> can clearly see the jagged edges reproduced from the inkjet prints. The film density of
> black ink in inkjet printers is never any problem for UV exposure. The main thing to watch
> out for is pin holes, but that depends entirly on what transparency and inkjet ink your
> using. Epson brand stuff give the best prints I've seen.
>
> Adam