Hi Jan,
some choices are diamond saws and your big clunky chop saw.
my chop saw has a sever wobble and will not do any fine work so it is
OK for roughing big sheets.
Harbor Freight sells a diamond tile saw for less than $100.00. tiny
blade, but you can get a great cut, very accuratly. and you will not
wear out that blade.
another choice it to clamp it on your mill and use a Vee point cutter
to mill a slot. both sides then break at the line and topuch up with
a file.
Dave
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
wrote:
> At 05:56 PM 12/9/02 -0500, JanRwl@A... wrote:
>
> >I have another question for this group, while I'm "here":
I "rough-cut" FR-4
> >on a bandsaw, using 14-TPI "woodworking" blades. If fresh, a cut
of just 1"
> >through that will "total" a blade for woodworking. I do this
actually too
> >infrequently to warrant looking at carbide- or "bimetal" blade-
stock.
> >HOWEVER, it is a royal pain in the gluteæ to hafta change blades!
Does
> >anyone have a suggestion for BETTER rough-cutting FR-4 ("glass")
stock?
>
> Before we got a shear, we used a radial arm saw with a carbide
tipped blade
> (still do for ripping 4' x 3' sheet stock down to a size that the
shear is
> happy with). Before that, it was a strictly manual process using
an Olfa
> 'P Cutter'. This is a cutter shaped something like a lino knife,
except
> with a smaller blade that is replaceable. The blade can also be
> re-sharpened many times.
>
> In use, just use a metal straight edge as a guide and pull the
knife along
> several times. The blade material is tough enough to score glass
epoxy PCB
> material with no problem. I recall that I'd take 4 or 5 heavy
passes
> before snapping the boards apart.
>
> One advantage is that it generates only a little dust.
>
> dwayne
>
>
>
> --
> Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...>
> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
> (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
>
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