Tom -
Thanks. As you can see, I'm not to savvy about how the pros do it. I
would imagine this process needs a very good negative. Do you use a
laser or inkjet printer? I really marvel at the quality boards one
can buy for relatively cheap these days, like computer motherboard
fully stuffed sans processor for 60-90.
Bob
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "twb8899 <twb8899@y...>"
<twb8899@y...> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Dry film photo resist is laminated to the panel using a hot roll
> laminator. The dry film resist that I use is .0015" thick and is
> developed in a 1% sodium carbonate (soda ash) solution. These films
> are negative acting and exposed with a UV light source. My light
> source uses a mercury vapor lamp which exposes the film in about 17
> seconds. If you expose the film using a negative you will have the
> traces and pads left behind on the copper panel for etching. After
> etching the photoresist is stripped from the board using a weak
> sodium hydroxide or lye solution.
>
> Tom
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Fitzgerald
<newaag@y...>"
> <newaag@y...> wrote:
> > What is the technique with dryfilm resist? It sounds like it is
> > laminated to the boards with heat? I just bought a dry mount
press
> so
> > I'm interested. I assume this is better than spraying boads? Is
> this
> > one of those products where it is not sold in small qty?
> > thks
> > Bob
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "twb8899 <twb8899@y...>"
> > <twb8899@y...> wrote:
> > > I can help anyone interested in blank boards with dryfilm
> > > photoresist. I have a laminator and plenty of dryfilm resist on
> > hand.
> > >
> > > Also have a photoplotter that makes positive or negative films
> from
> > > Gerber photoplot data. Contact me off list if there is any
> > interest.
> > >
> > > Tom twb8899@y...
> > >