What type of Kodak paper??
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kim Currier"
<kimcurrier@s...> wrote:
>
> I actually used my HP 6L and it transfered VERY well... I just
lost the mask as the acid ate it up before the copper was gone...
> Laminator, huh?? Hmmm....
>
> Kim
> I also found that the KODAK paper worked EXCELLENT!!! CAme off
after a few minutes in the water, and left little if NO residue...
>
> Kim.. again...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ecwebb1
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 1:05 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Xerox laminator at Staples w/ rebate,
good results
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> New lister here, and new at PCB creation as well. I'm trying
the TT
> method as I was trying to get something out this weekend (well,
I
> almost succeeded ;)
>
> Anyway, I wanted to recommend the Xerox XRX-LM1910 laminator now
on
> sale at Staples for $39 (that includes an additional $20
rebate). I
> was going for cheap and, if possible, no mods. The GBC H200 is
> discontinued and replaced by the H210, but no one has commented
on
> modifying it. I purchased an H210 today as well ($99) but based
on
> the performance of the Xerox, I may bring the GBC back tomorrow
and
> pocket the money.
>
> Anyway, I ran 1/16" single-sided 1oz through the Xerox using a
> "carrier" of laser printer paper folded in half. I used four
passes
> through the machine, temp set to max (275F) and laminator
in "Foil"
> mode. The PCB I'm using is rather thick for this unit, but it
> swallowed what I gave it without many complaints. It's a
little
> tight going in the front and pops a little coming out. In the
> future, I'll probably try 1/32" board instead and see how that
> goes... I'm afraid that the thicker board will eventually kill
the
> laminator (motor, rollers, or whatever). Tonight, the boards
were
> small -- only 2"x4".
>
> I decided to get the laminator after many inconsistent, smudgy
> results using a plain clothes iron. I'll also recommend
Pulsar's
> TTS sheets.. they really make the job easier. But if you don't
have
> any, tonight I also tried using some Hammermill Color Laser
Gloss
> (Staples.. 300 sheets for $8) and got great results (though it
has
> to sit in water longer than the Pulsar stuff before it releases
and
> leaves a slight white residue that comes off with light rubbing
and
> water). Traces look good and I think it's ready to go straight
into
> the tank. My smallest traces are 10 mil (according to PCB),
though
> some text I printed on the board looks much smaller and came out
> well.
>
> I'll try to etch these test boards tomorrow.. too late to mess
with
> FeCL now..
>
> Has anyone used a LaserJet 5P in TT process? Linux lets me
crank
> density up to 5, but I don't know if the printer is actually
using
> it. I could definately stand heavier density, but the results
seem
> pretty good as is. Tomorrow I'll try an old Okidata LED printer
and
> see if it does any better.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files,
and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
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>
>
>
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