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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: The verdict on the quiet Dremel?

From: Alan King <alan@...>
Date: 2005-12-15

James Newton wrote:

>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
>
>
>> But, I do have plans to focus one of my webcams in very close,
>>
>>
>put it
>
>
>>right next to the bit, and move up and down. 640 pixels from 1/4"
>>
>>
>away
>
>
>>and move the bit up and down should detect if there is any off
>>
>>
>angle a
>
>
>>little better than using a normal visual method, should get it
>>
>>
>very
>
>
>>close to perfect on one pass.
>>
>>
>
>
>If you find a web cam that can do that or figure out how to adapt
>one, please let me know. I can't get any of the 4 I own to focust
>closer than about a foot and a half away. I've looked for close up
>lenses, but all I can find are for the higher end cameras.
>
>Having the ability to do close up with a web cam is the first step
>in machine vision automation on the hobby level. The software is
>becomming available, the only real cost at this point is the high
>end cameras you have to buy.
>
>
>
http://www.superference.com/images/PCB/80bit.jpg
http://www.superference.com/images/PCB/80bitLED.jpg
http://www.superference.com/images/PCB/1mmRouter.jpg
http://www.superference.com/images/PCB/18f242board.jpg Dusty 18f242
board where I tore up a trace, focus backed out a bit..

Those are with my bone stock Logitech Quickcam Zoom. No need for
anything special, just open them up, break the stop so you can unscrew
the lens further, and you're done. Usually the first thing I do to any
new webcam, but I got the zoom for chatting and it already does well
enough stock that I never broke it to work further. Could probably do
2x what's in that picture. Every other web cam I have can do that or
better after breaking the stop, even the $19 closeouts and free after
rebate one..

Never understood why everything doesn't just grab a pic against a
plain background to set tool depth for CNC. Probably a patent issue
though..

Grab a pic with the tip at the top, then move down until the shank end
is at the top, and if it's within the same pixel at the top for both you
will know your bit is drilling true. Do that again 90 degrees off and
you know the bit is truly running parallel with the motion in both axes
and the bit is following behind the tip, with no sideways forces applied
as it drills further into a material.


Also beats the heck out of trying to eyeball SMT component markings
and good for checking solder joints. The board gives some idea, and it
wasn't a really close picture.

The small 1mm chipbreaker routers I just got look so huge now, hadn't
directly compared them before with the 80s. Also included a pic, they
are all bits from toolsandtunes, tends to have the best deals.

Alan