Some might also be interested in this, although not proven yet.
To speed up my CNC drilling I am experimenting with this item I got
from ebay.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/homebrew_pcbs/lst?&.dir=/Spiydaor if that doesn't work, in the Spiydafolder in the photos section
item ... slide
It is a small pneumatic slide with two cylinders inside.. It both
takes care of the parallel movement and the actuation.
I also got some 24 Volt pneamatic valves from the same guy that I
have had Mach3 switching on and off.
It should not only be faster than the x axis movement but will also
reduce the wear as i didn't take the same care with the z as i did
with the x and y.
Just a case of finding the time to do it !
It was a cheap way to get a small movement axis at $29 shipped to
me!
Chris
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "soffee83" <soffee83@y...>
wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "adicont2" <adicont2@y...>
> wrote:
> > Take a look here for a simple schematic:
> > http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=ilfuh1
>
> I still think the additional "upper rail support" might be needed
to
> keep the whole thing vertical and steady, and I like the idea of
> fatter posts for those too, so having the posts protrude up
through
> the carriage pipes might be a necessity. The whole thing could be
> short enough that you could just slice a couple sections out of
the
> larger tube. The small tube would only have to be tall enough to
> handle a PCB plus the bit and Dremel nose section. The Dremel
itself
> could extend up past the whole rig, and you could just stack
plywood/
> hardboard "shim" plates to get the table height from the base for
> different bit lengths.
>
> I just mailed someone who might have car stuff laying around. If
she
> has something good, I may try it over the next few days. I'm not
> really familiar with shock parts, but if that large (1"?) outer
tube
> I've seen has a tight fit to the smaller one on the main visible
body,
> it would be perfect (and thanks again for the suggestion).
>
> -George
>