George,
If I was building with a big motor, i would make the pcb move up and
down rather than the motor..
its only a few millimetres so i don't think it would affect your
grip on the board
Chris
(ps i'm kind of known for lateral thinking :-)
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "soffee83" <soffee83@y...>
wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
> >Hassle! But no motor-brushes,sparks, "buzz", etc.
>
> I was meaning to mention that I wasn't looking forward to the
> recommended speed change thing.:(
>
> With the press on low speed like it's been, and the belt-cover top
> flipped open, it puts off a mild soothing "rumble", which is great
for
> that tedious million hole stuff. I can't imagine sitting in front
of
> my B&D router for that. I'm not even sure about that length
of "Dremel
> time" now that I think about it.
>
> I found three raw 120VAC motors here, but they're gigantic.
They're
> also a lot slower. I use one in a drum spinning thing I made. Is
the
> thing you're talking about small enough to mount directly in a
> travelling carriage? Is it noisy, and does it take a chuck
attachment
> directly?
>
> Good point also on the pivot to bit distance and it's "skew"
factor.
>
> Not to change the subject, but I was also wondering how bad it is
to
> sink the bits further up in a chuck to shorten the amount of
> unsupported bit material? I fear that jaws gripping the spiralled
part
> of it is not good. Like everyone's saying though, we really only
need
> a little more than the board thickness.
>
> -George
>