Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "soffee83" <soffee83@...>
> specifically say that the white is not. A Pulsar rep. said the white
> is thicker and may clog closed areas on PCB "lettering", but can be
> removed via Scotch tape or something. Not to sound cheap, but has
> anyone tried using the white for copper?

The white seems much more powdery, for lack of a more vividly descriptive
term, than the green. I didn't get the sense that it would seal and support
the toner as the green does. I had the same thought you did, but abandoned
it after seeing what it looked like after transferring. That's not the same
as actually using for etch; no, I haven't tried it.

FWIW, I usually don't bother with the white. Maybe it makes a difference
with solder mask on top, but plain black toner for part placement works just
fine for me.

> And more importantly, I've been having decent success with the Staples
> brand paper, but it does leave a really thin, grey film on the toner.
> Do you think this would kill the TRF's ability to coat the print?

The TRF bonds to the re-heated toner. I would think anything in between
would interfere with the bond. For all I know, though, the paper residue
might do the same job just as well or better.

> PS- In case you're wondering why I don't just ask Pulsar, I emailed
> them a while back with some other questions and the guy was real
> helpful and responded right away. I told him I would go ahead and get
> the foil from Digi-Key, but I'm sort of embarrassed that I haven't
> ordered it yet. ;)

I'm sure he keeps a list, and wonders why he hasn't seen your order yet.