What model/brand printer is that?
About the solid state relais, the right triac must be right between one of
the fuser lamp wires and mains power, so if you follow the wires you must
hit it. Check the part number if it is a triac to be sure. By following
the third leg of the triac (usually with a thinner trace going to it) you
must hit the optocoupler. Best to take out the whole board, there's
usually a resistor between opto and mains you'll need. Ideally trace the
circuit from the opto output the the triac and associated components so
you know how you need to assemble it later on. The triac mightn't have a
heatsink.
You'll also need some form of low power DC supply like 5V or 12V or
whatever for the thermostat, so if there are components in there you like,
take them.
There's a old writeup about the fuser at
<
http://trethan.at.tf/pub/fuser/fuser_as_laminator.html>, it's over a year
old and full of typos, maybe i'll get around to update it one of these
days. But basically you see the most simple circuit you need to put on the
opto input, the opto output and triac stuff is best left like it was in
the printer.
ST
On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 18:57:10 +0100, lcdpublishing
<
lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
> There are a number of large components on the Circuit board near the
>
> connection point to the fuser. Several, what I believe are solid
>
> state relays - a triac w/heatsink (I think), some transformers etc.
>
>
> The optocoupler I am not sure of. There are a number of opto-
>
> switches (the slotted devices used to sense something between
>
> them). I don't think this is what you are referring to though so I
>
> will study the PCB some more to see if I Can find something that
>
> looks like an Optoisolater chip.
>
>
> On the fuser itself, there are the power wires going in one end of
>
> the unit. On the opposite end, there are two groups of wires going
>
> in - I am assuming one of those two sets of wires is the
>
> thermostat. I didn't want to mess with it too much till I found out
>
> what I should be keeping and such.
>
>
> The unit seems to accept a PCB board without trouble and by turning
>
> the shaft by hand, it will pass right through.
>
>
> I do have a photo-type thermometer that I use all the time around
>
> the shop - goes up to 400 degrees F so that should work good. I
>
> will have to scrounge a motor somewhere. It is winter here now so
>
> the retailers have all the grill stuff packed away - but, with
>
> Christmas getting close, as soon as that is over, the summer stuff
>
> will be back on the shelves again.