soffee83 wrote:
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
>
>
>> Note that his info was for an older HP printer, 300 DPI I believe.
>>
>>
>
>Alan,
>
>Thanks! Yes it was I recall. I think he was on a LaserJet4. I remember
>looking at toner and I think the 3&4 had the same thing. Looks like
>the 5&6 share a cart too. I'm not sure if they would use the same
>stuff inside or not, but mine seems to do well with whatever is in
>there. I think this one even does better with a slightly lighter
>contrast. Luckily, the thick wide areas are the main things I usually
>had trouble with on toner transfers and they were the easiest to touch
>up if necessary. I'm planning to start cutting back on those anyway
>and just masking the large spots with marker or doing hatch patterns
>when I can.
>
>Was there a particular generic you liked? Ebay had some $22 dollar
>ones in a bright green, blue and white package, but there were also a
>few others.
> -Take Care
>George
>
>
>
Can't tell, I don't see anyone with the picture of the cartridge as I
remember it. It had the cartridge partially open to show the drum, and
was green not the real high resolution blue. Likely one of the people
still selling them, but they've changed the picture.
I would imagine that most any of the cheap toners will be roughly the
same. The HP toner for 6L has a fine particle size, that is why it
lasts longer, you cover more area with the same total volume of toner.
The thicker cheap toner makes it a little easier to transfer, even when
it stays on the page some of it is more likely to have transferred.
Plus I'm pretty sure off the top of my head that the HP 6L cartridge was
spec'd to have a higher melting point toner, and for sure the cheap
stuff melts at the lower temps, so again a little easier to transfer
than the real 6L toner. Not that it can't work with the original cart,
but no sense paying extra for that when it's time to refil if the clones
work even a little better for transfer..
Alan