Sb. that left the group (i think) tried using a intermediate drum.
Basically a (silicone rubber i think) drum that contacts the photodrum,
and below it passes the board. The charge is easier to apply with no
danger of shorting to the drum itself, and it is soft material. The board
is sitting on a hotplate so when it passes the drum it is fused.
While this is what i can imagine working, it is too much like printing to
silicone paper with hugely more work for me.
ST
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 01:40:47 +0100, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
>
>
> They depend on the high insulation properties of paper to hold the
>
> charge, and it's induced by the corona wire.
>
>
> Yes copper will redistribute the charge. Instead of inducing a charge,
>
> directly contact and give about what's needed at the drum.
>
>
> Might want to look back at the discussions Stefan and I had last year or
>
> so on it, probably everything you're likely to hit anytime soon and then
>
> some..
>
>
> End conclusions:
>
>
> Tape your board edges, and with reasonably good surface you're not
>
> scratching your drum, or not much. Cost of doing easy prints is maybe a
>
> toner cartridge sooner rather than later, $20 now and then.
>
>
> My HP6L prints great onto large areas of aluminum foil taped to a
>
> page. Get wrinkles from not being attached, and flakes off here and
>
> there from being too smooth and also flexible. Way, way better than I
>
> expected to print on straight metal. Transfers rather well, metal beats
>
> the heck out of paper for getting heat to the copper. Thin copper sheet
>
> and adhere to board would probably work fairly well for me, but other
>
> things do well enough and haven't worked on it too much beyond tests.
>
>
> With mods for straight board and keeping the right weak charge on the
>
> copper, it's likely it will work, at least on my 6Ls. Even straight
>
> path printers aren't straight, major work required on the path for the
>
> board. TT works ok enough, so while it'd be great and I have extra
>
> printers at hand for it, it's still a very back burner project.
>
>
> Heck not too much point reading the old discussions now. That's where
>
> mine was at, and I think mine was going as well as anyone's trying it.
>
>
> Feed direction alignment is easy enough, do it optically at the same
>
> point on the board edge, and top and bottom should be aligned well in
>
> the feed axis. Other axis would be mechanically aligned, but still
>
> should be able to get it pretty good too.
>
>
> Alan
>