Hi Mike,
I think with the toner transfer stuff, what works for any of us
doesn't actually mean it is going to work for someone else. There
are a lot of variables in the process as a whole and that is part of
the problem with getting universal results.
Stefan, I believe, is the proponent of using a fuser from a laser
printer. I use mostly the .062" thick PCB material and nothing less
(for no other reason than that is what I can find easily when I need
it). So, I am going to keep a watchful eye out for either a used
laminator or an old laser printer that I can hack the fuser out of.
I really hate buying something new (like a new laminator) to hack it
up only to find that it won't work to my expectations :-( Don't
mind hacking apart older used stuff though, even if I have to pay a
few bucks for it.
Thanks again for all the input!
Chris
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> Thickness of the board is another issue I didn't want to add it
to
> my answer to simplify the matteer. I am using 40 and 60 mills
> fiberglass and 60 mills phenolic crap, that is 45 years old. I am
> also using 10 mills flex. All of them work fine but only AS LONG
AS I
> am using that secret paper. The minute I switch to something else
I
> get results all over teh map. In fact I can use common laser bond
> paper and get the same results as any other paper except for that
> secret Staples paper.
>
> I tried making my own dextrine paper, I tried printing on
aluminum,
> wax paper, baking paper, lables backing paper (whose idea was
that?
> That was insane!), I tried tracing paper, photographic paper, I
tried
> plotting on copper directly, I sacrificed my laser printer to
laser
> print on copper directly, I tried making my own ink for inkjet
∗hello
> a new inkjest printer...), I tried machinists paint and scratch
and
> etch... and many variations. Now, steam iron works but on small
POCBs
> with heavy (to be defined ;) tracks...
>
> All methods produced ok to good results some of the time to most
of
> the time. I do not believe in using a pen to correct a laminated
PCB.
>
> Once I run out of my secret paper supply I will switch to the PMS
> paper.
>
> What works (FOR ME) is this combination...ok, I won't mention it
> agin, I mentioned it in a previous email. Mike
>