I do move the iron, butonly when the board is too big to just leave
it in one spot...
The way I do this is tolay a sheet of plain white paper over the
press-n-peel
Then start by holding the iron in one spot with my right habd.
I then push down on the sheet of paper (where it is not over the
board) which seems to lock everything in place..
I then move the iron round slowly, keeping my pressureon the paper..
I think it'simportant to have the paper when moving the iron, it
stops the tranfer sliding on the board.
Also, the times have to be increased proportionally to compensate
I do allmy boards this way, I don't have any small enough to do with
the iron stationary.
Cheers
Chris
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "andrew566020"
<andy.jrhall@b...> wrote:
>
> Hi Chris,
>
> Thanks for helping with my question. That's two votes for using an
> iron. Mike also responded saying he has success with the 'iron
> method'. I guess that I'll do some experimentation for myself and
see
> how I get on.
>
> Do you move the iron around (as if ironing a shirt) or do you apply
> heat and pressure in one place for a while then lift and move the
iron
> somewhere else?
>
> Best wishes and thanks,
>
> Andy.
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Horne" <chris@s...>
wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > If its any help, I can only relate what I do.
> >
> > I do a dozen or so 8" x 5.5" boards a week and I still use an
Iron..
> > the same one my wife uses to do the ironing.
> > (more important toys to buy !)
> >
> > I use an HP 1010 laser at 600 dpi to print on press-n-peel sheets
> > it works a treat... ---
> >
> > I clean the boards with 600 wet and dry, rinse and dry them
> >
> > Then iron on (middle steam heat, without the heat)
> > with a single sheet of ordinary white paper between the iron and
> > press-n-peel.. I iron for about 1.5 minutes
> >
> > Then quench under the tap and peel the sheet off
> >
> > The process work fine for the boards I do, I get 98% success rate
> > and I'm not going to mess with a process that works !
> >
> > The biggest pain was hand drilling the holes..
> > if you are doing Fibreglass, you need to buy carbide bits
> >
> > I use mostly paper boards but still use carbide bits, they last
10's
> > of times longer.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "andrew566020"
<andy.jrhall@b...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I'm about to attempt my first homemade pcb after many years of
> > using
> > > breadboards and veroboard for my electronics tinkering!
> > >
> > > I've recently joined the group and have been avidly reading
the
> > recent
> > > posts and the archives. I do however have a few questions...
> > >
> > > Many of the posts I've read advise against the use of an iron
and
> > > recommend a laminator instead. Because of this I went looking
for a
> > > suitable model. It struck me that many of the laminators for
sale
> > were
> > > quoting maximum thicknesses of 250 micron (1/4 mm), this
doesn't
> > seem
> > > nearly enough capacity, am I missing something?
> > >
> > > Also I intend buying a laser printer. The HP laserjet 1022 is
a
> > budget
> > > model that is reputed to have high quality output. Would this
be a
> > > reasonable starting place or should I look elsewhere.
> > >
> > > Sorry for the dumb questions but I really am at the bottom of
this
> > > learning curve so any help would be welcome..
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Andy.
> > >
> >
>