See? Now I have to apologize because I thought you meant the opposite!
Crap. Irony is soometimes hard to get from a post.
I'm sure Larry had better info than I, since he actually sold the
stuff, but frankly, there are situations where you've got to grab on
to SOMETHING. Metalbox modules have screws and they sell pretty well.
For me, I don't give a darn - I bought the Joystick (and Borg and
Noise Ring) because it is a quality module that does stuff I need.
Bugger the screwholes (oops, sorry again)! Mostly (as you said) it's
the MUSIC that counts...so I think we are in vehement agreement.
Again, sorry for the misread...
Mike
--- In
ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Grant Richter"
<grichter@...> wrote:
>
> OK, I'll bite.
>
> I was told by Larry Hendry (RIP) that people would NOT buy a MOTM
module if there were
> screws that went through the faceplate. Even though the mounting
screws go through the
> faceplate.
>
> That is why there are only 10 MOTMized Noise Rings.
>
> How do I attach a joystick to a MOTM faceplate without screws going
through the
> faceplate? I don't trust glue and positioning would be a bitch, even
if glue were strong
> enough.
>
> There is no way I can afford to have screw stubs spot welded to the
back. That would be
> like 100 times the price of 4 simple screws.
>
> --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Marsh"
<michaelmarsh@>
> wrote:
> >
> > [OT] Small rant of my own:
> >
> > I don't recall seeing ANY screwholes on any MOTM module, and I have a
> > few. My Wiard Joystick on the other hand...I may have misread this
> > post, and if I have I apologize. It is entirely possible to put Wiard
> > modules behind an MOTM faceplate without screwholes, so the reason we
> > don't see Wiard modules in MOTM format must be something else.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Grant Richter"
> > <grichter@> wrote:
> > >
> > > First, no offense to Chris for an excellent question.
> > >
> > > Don't talk to me about "no screw holes in the faceplate" that is why
> > you don't see Wiard
> > > modules in MOTM format. That idea is insulting to any designer.
> > >
> > > Spend your time thinking about MUSIC, forget the g∗dd∗mn screwholes,
> > get some therapy
> > > for your out of control OCD behavior, how many times do you wash
> > your hands a
> > > day?????????????????? (loud hissing of steam escaping from ears).
> > >
> > > I apologize for the rant, silly limitations really annoy me.
> > >
> > > There is no advantage to ANY panel mounted components being in hard
> > copper on the PC
> > > board.
> > >
> > > What if someone wants to use it for controlling dimmer packs for a
> > hobby theater?
> > > Then the board would be bench top mounted horizontally and the pots
> > would be slide
> > > pots. It could support both 0-10 volt packs and the MIDI controlled
> > ones.
> > >
> > > What about using it to control servo laser scanners for a laserium
> > light show? (those are
> > > voltage outputs to current drivers)
> > >
> > > What if all the pots are force sensing resistors built into a
> > dancers suit?
> > >
> > > What about if it is used for squib control to light the "Burning
> > Man" on fire when
> > > Interstellar Overdrive reaches the climax?
> > >
> > > OK, those are meant to be humorous examples, but also practical
> > applications.
> > >
> > > I don't see an anvantage favoring any mounting position or
> > potentiometer type, spacing or
> > > placement. I would just use the Wiard pigtail pot assembly method.
> > That is each pot,
> > > switch or whatever has a dedicated 0.100 KK connector. You can
> > always solder directly to
> > > the PC pads and skip the connectors.
> > >
> > > I would use the extra space for as much perf board area as possible
> > for hanging more
> > > experimenters chips, sensors, high current servo drivers etc.
> > >
> > > We will have holes in the right spots for that MOTM metal bracket
> > thingy. Can sombody
> > > tell me what that spacing and hole size is?
> > >
> > > A 4 x 6 board will fit in a Frac-Rac. Is 6-7 inches too deep for
> > MOTM and Doepfer racks?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, xamboldt <xamboldt@>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Or... if pots aren't PCB-mounted, what panel components should
be?
> > > > MIDI Jacks? DIN? LEDs? We've already heard that DIN might not be
> > > > something everyone would want...
> > > >
> > > > Would there be room for 4 pots and MIDI I/O?
> > > >
> > > > -Chris
> > > >
> > > > On Mar 10, 2006, at 3:10 PM, xamboldt wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Can of worms warning!
> > > > >
> > > > > Should the PCB be laid out so as to allow PCB-mounted pots for
> > > > > perhaps 4 or 6 of the controls? Different front panel
formats could
> > > > > be allowed for by simply doing point-to-point wiring instead
of PCB
> > > > > mounting the pots. The difficulty comes in deciding which format
> > > > > would be used to dictate the spacing of holes for the
PCB-mounted
> > > > > pots. Both Blacet and MOTM have standards we could
appropriate for
> > > > > PCB-mounted pots. The CVS' pots (as spelled out by Grant) are
> > grouped
> > > > > in functional units of 4, and that is the typical max vertical
> > > > > allowance of pots on an MOTM panel. Blacet has up to 6
maximum, but
> > > > > plenty of designs have fewer pots.
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess someone had to bring it up.... :)
> > > > >
> > > > > -Chris
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think we can use the Metalbox style 1900H knobs and
Alpha pots
> > > > > > for Frac-Rac.
> > > > > > The jack spacing should accept either Switchcraft (Blacet) or
> > > > > > 16PJ135 (Wiard) jacks.
> > > > > > The 16PJ135 jacks wire up very neatly because of the
ground tangs
> > > > > > being in-line.
> > > > > > The knurled nuts are designed to be assembled with
fingernails, so
> > > > > > that is one less tool
> > > > > > you need.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>