<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><p style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.1;">Surface mount headers seem to come with a temporary pick-n-place cap<br><br>It seems like you just needed a longer version of that (or multiples of smaller)<br><br></p>
<div style="display: inline-block; overflow: clear;"><img style="display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%;" src="https://www.wayconn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/PH254-2M06.jpg"></div>
<p style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.1;">Jeff<br><br></p>
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<div>-----Original Message-----<br>From: cheater cheater <cheater00social@gmail.com><br>Sent: Sep 13, 2024 9:40 AM<br>To: jslee <john@sleefamily.org><br>Cc: SDIY <synth-diy@synth-diy.org><br>Subject: Re: [sdiy] Covers / shroud for unused header pins?<br>
<p style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.1;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">this isn't very new, a lot of hardware had a vinyl cover screwed down</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">to the pcb, but it's usually to prevent spills. usually used in</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">keyboards (both musical and computer). i guess for them a pcb was</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">better because they wanted to create a cheap backplate because they</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">know people will be putting that thing without a skiff right on the</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">table, and probably shorting it out. so including that pcb is probably</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">cheaper than having thousands of returns where PEBKAC shorted out his</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">synth and then went on to say "he doesn't know what happened, it just</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">stopped working".</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">On Fri, Sep 13, 2024 at 10:52 AM jslee via Synth-diy</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">wrote:</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> On Sat, 7 Sep 2024, at 05:12, James R. Coplin wrote:</p>
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<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> Basically, the cabinet has two of these installed for LED control.</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> <a href="https://www.ultimarc.com/output/led-and-output-controllers/pacled64/">https://www.ultimarc.com/output/led-and-output-controllers/pacled64/</a></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> If it were my project I would be awfully tempted to either</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> * if open source hardware, modify the pacled64 design to use not-shit connectors, or</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> * make a “lid” board that bolts down to spacers on the mounting holes, with slots for cabling to pass through and attach to the pin headers. You could 3d-print some snugly-fitting plugs for the slots — then you’d have protection from shorting to the whole board rather than merely the connectors</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> * or make a “lid” board that bolts down to spacers on the mounting holes, with not-shit connectors on the top side and SMD (so no pads on top to accidentally short to) mating connectors underneath</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> Either way, a mechanically-secured cover for the pins.</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> When I read your post I immediately started thinking about automotive wiring. There has got to be a better way to manage this mess. Is there an internal panel that you could mount a bulkhead connector on? And then create separate looms for the “front panel” and “brains” sides. It seems there is a “keeping everything immobile” problem here and this is one approach to it.</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> As someone else said, crimping isn’t hard. The not-shit crimping tools and connectors can be expensive, but think about how much nicer it might be for the next guy ;-)</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> Deutsch DTM? Would they be too bulky for your wire count? Yes I know they’re expensive</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> When I received my System80 880 drum machine (Eurorack module) some years back I was astonished to find that the designer had created a “rear panel” PCB for it that had no circuitry but instead had (a) a slot for the Eurorack power connector, and (b) clearly identified holes for all of the trimpots. Really a significant step beyond every other module in my system.</p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">></p>
<p style="margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">> John</p>
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