<html theme="default-dark" iconset="color"><head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
</head><body text="#000000">
<div class="moz-text-html" lang="x-unicode">Basically, the cabinet has
two of these
installed for LED control.<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.ultimarc.com/output/led-and-output-controllers/pacled64/"
style="color: rgb(0, 157, 247);">https://www.ultimarc.com/output/led-and-output-controllers/pacled64/</a><br>
<br>
As you can see, they have two large headers of pins for the led controls
and since I'm using 2 of them, there are a significant number of unused
pins. I have to use 2 because some of the leds are 5v and some are 12v.
The whole cabinet is filled with point to point, crimped on spade type
connectors. Troubleshooting an intermittent ground connection pretty
much requires having it on and poking around. Further, because the
control panel takes a lot of physical use and vibration from button
presses, disgruntled fist smashing, etc, things can come loose since the
connection are friction not soldered. The spades do have insulation on
them to try and prevent shorting but even so, I had a loose connection
hit the pins at just the right angle that the inside spade connected
across pins and blew out a board. I probably couldn't do it again if I
tried but the way my luck goes, I don't want to find out and that's why I
was looking for solutions.<br>
<br>
The corrugated cardboard suggestion seems like a really good one and I
will probably try that or some foam core. I'll probably just end up <span
style="display: inline; font-size: inherit; padding: 0px;"
class="__postbox-detected-content __postbox-detected-date"
__postbox-detected-content="__postbox-detected-date">3d</span>
printing something or use terminal housings that match with the minimum
number of empty terminals installed for it to grab. The ribbon cable
type connectors would be great but they aren't meant to go right next to
each other so probably wont work either.<br>
<br>
James<br>
<br>
<span>Nathan Trites wrote on 9/6/2024 11:43 AM:</span><br>
<span id="conversationRevealQuotes0"
class="conversationRevealQuotesLink" style="display: block; color:
rgb(0, 157, 247);">- show quoted text -</span>
<br>
</div>
<br>
<br>
<span>Nathan Trites wrote on 9/6/2024 11:43 AM:</span><br>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAHy3N6AWST-2xVZH5BmmLRxffAaKt1PnQw5qxOwKYh08JLYP6w@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<div dir="ltr">I completely agree, opening and closing the case isn't
the issue here - precaution is. Maneuvering and working with live
circuits is an inherent part of diagnostics and repair, and depending on
the device there are infinite ways to cause shorts during routine
work. <div><br></div><div>Personally, I'm surprised there's 20 posts of
advice in this thread and no one's asked exactly what kind of
header/connectors James is working with! Since it's an old arcade
cabinet, I'd assume a mix of edge connectors and molex? Immediate
advice: put heat shrink over the spade terminal. Any bigger free
floating connectors just use larger diameter heat shrink (1" etc) long
enough so it doesn't make contact with other parts. If you need to
easily remove and re-insulate, some kind of tape. Florian's initial
advice is the right move for most friction connector types.</div><div><br></div><div>Think
thru the scenarios:</div><div><br><div>If the header is always exposed
and could be considered a design flaw or allowed to happen due to other
design choices (e.g. you need to have various connectors unsecured in
order to work on it), having a way to cover the headers when not in use
makes perfect sense. I'd create a dummy connector of the same type (with
crimps inserted if needed), and if the connector type doesn't have a
cover or covered version available, fill the cable opening with silicone
RTV or hot glue. </div><div><br></div><div>If they were left exposed in
the course of repair and the risk of shorting is there again... If
they're low voltage/current I'd probably just put blue painters tape
over them until they're needed again, or some type of Kapton, PTFE, or
electrical tape which all have other compromises. If they're higher
voltage or current, secure the loose connector as best as possible so it
doesn't pose any risk, or create a dummy connector for the exposed
header and insulate the openings with hot glue or something. As above,
cover any free connectors on cables with appropriately sized heat
shrink.</div><div><br></div><div>Nathan</div><div><br></div></div></div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Sep
6, 2024 at 10:23 AM Florian Anwander <<a
href="mailto:fanwander@mnet-online.de" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">fanwander@mnet-online.de</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote
class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>
<div>Hello<br>
<br>
Am 06.09.24 um 14:17 schrieb cheater cheater via Synth-diy:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">i'm
still confused as to how unplugging a thing from the wall is too
difficult
</blockquote>
hmmm, when I am repairing a device and I have to do measurements or
trimming, I will have to open and close the lid a hundred times to
change settings on the frontpanel and then get back inside to
continue my measurement. Of course I don't want to unplug or switch
off the device, for each move of the lid...<br>
<br>
Florian<br>
</div>
________________________________________________________<br>
This is the Synth-diy mailing list<br>
Submit email to: <a href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</a><br>
View archive at: <a href="https://synth-diy.org/pipermail/synth-diy/"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://synth-diy.org/pipermail/synth-diy/</a><br>
Check your settings at: <a
href="https://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy</a><br>
Selling or trading? Use <a href="mailto:marketplace@synth-diy.org"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">marketplace@synth-diy.org</a><br></blockquote></div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
<pre wrap="">________________________________________________________
This is the Synth-diy mailing list
Submit email to: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</a>
View archive at: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://synth-diy.org/pipermail/synth-diy/">https://synth-diy.org/pipermail/synth-diy/</a>
Check your settings at: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy">https://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy</a>
Selling or trading? Use <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:marketplace@synth-diy.org">marketplace@synth-diy.org</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
<div>Sent from <a href="https://www.postbox-inc.com"><span style="color:
rgb(0, 157, 247);">Postbox</span></a></div></div>
</body></html>