<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Papyrus;
panose-1:3 7 5 2 6 5 2 3 2 5;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
text-decoration:underline;}
span.EmailStyle17
{mso-style-type:personal;
font-family:Papyrus;
color:windowtext;}
span.EmailStyle19
{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
font-size:10.0pt;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 70.85pt 70.85pt;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext="edit">
<o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple style='WORD-WRAP: break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I do this for all panel components – pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I’ll tack solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned. Typically the pots aren’t quite at the right height and this puts stress on the phenolic which can crack. Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks, pots, and switches. Sometimes I can hear a “pop” as the pot lead relaxes and it adjusts to the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Someone once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with no panel. Of course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the solder completely so you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35 switch holes oversize and file some to fit.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><br>Dave<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-left:solid blue 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt'><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>David G Dixon<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM<br><b>To:</b> 'info synthcube.com'; jpdesroc@oricom.ca; tom@electricdruid.net<br><b>Cc:</b> 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy@synth-diy.org'<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:blue'>LEDs can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not be at the correct height for poking through the panel. The best way to install LEDs is to first install all of the other components, then stuff the LED leads into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at least a few nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel sits upsidedown on the bench. In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct height. I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.</span><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>