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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=197234120-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>That's a good idea if you have the panel at hand.
Sometimes, I am making PCBs for a client and the actual panel is in a different
country.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=197234120-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=197234120-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>For the pots I use, the solder tabs tend to bend slightly
as needed to adjust to the correct spacing. In any case, I lay out all my
panels and my PCBs on a strict 0.1" spacing grid, so things generally slip into
their respective holes with ease. The most unforgiving parts are switches
with two or more rows of tabs, such as DPDT switches. These must be
aligned correctly.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV><BR>
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<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Dave Brown
[mailto:davebr@modularsynthesis.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, 2020
12:08 PM<BR><B>To:</B> 'David G Dixon'; 'info synthcube.com';
jpdesroc@oricom.ca; tom@electricdruid.net<BR><B>Cc:</B> 'john slee';
'Synth-diy@synth-diy.org'<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: [sdiy] My new Moog 960
sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
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Non-UBC Email]</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN>
<DIV class=WordSection1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">I
do this for all panel components – pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I’ll tack
solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned. Typically
the pots aren’t quite at the right height and this puts stress on the phenolic
which can crack. Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks, pots, and
switches. Sometimes I can hear a “pop” as the pot lead relaxes and it adjusts to
the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Someone
once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with no panel. Of
course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the solder completely so
you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35 switch holes oversize and
file some to fit.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><BR>Dave<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
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style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> Synth-diy
[mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>David G
Dixon<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM<BR><B>To:</B> 'info
synthcube.com'; jpdesroc@oricom.ca; tom@electricdruid.net<BR><B>Cc:</B> 'john
slee'; 'Synth-diy@synth-diy.org'<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960
sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely
..<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">LEDs can
also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not be at the
correct height for poking through the panel. The best way to install LEDs
is to first install all of the other components, then stuff the LED leads
into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at least a few
nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel sits
upsidedown on the bench. In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
height. I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.</SPAN><SPAN
style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>