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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Sorry: Long rambling post ahead...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>I live in Canada. We use metric units in our everyday
lives. However, if you take something to a machine shop, they will
typically want the specifications in 1000ths of an inch. It's not just
electronics. All the "trades" still use feet and inches. 2 x 4s are
still 8 feet long, and house areas are still expressed in square feet. We
just had our house renovated last year, and I never heard the
word "centimeter."</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Also, at the supermarket, things such as meat are priced per
100g, but often sold by the pound -- yes, it's very confusing and
annoying. Also most Canadians express their height in feet and
inches and their weight in pounds (avoirdupois).</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=985481719-09112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN class=985481719-09112020>The
thing to remember is that hardware such as nuts require tools, and most
Americans are going to have tools in fractions of an inch. Also, when I
buy drill bits, even here in Canada, they are invariably in fractions of an
inch. I know that I need to drill 3/8" for most jacks and pots, and
1/4" for switches. If a company such as Alpha or Taiway changed that,
it would be to their peril.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN
class=985481719-09112020></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN class=985481719-09112020>Also,
note that the standard spacing of through-hole leads is often expressed as 5.08
mm. Even though this is a metric unit, it is still 1/10". That
hasn't changed (thank the gods).</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN
class=985481719-09112020></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN
class=985481719-09112020>Finally, the thing I like about panel PCBs (other than
the obvious fact that they eliminate most panel wiring) is that they are
easy to lay out and a pleasure to drill and assemble. There's something
very satisfying about having a panel PCB all stuffed and ready to just plug into
a panel. Also, while I appreciate J-P's comment about having to remove all
the nuts to fix one component, it must be said that applying and removing the
nuts from panel components with a panel PCB is infinitely easier than doing it
without one, because the components do not rotate, but remain in perfect
alignment. Hence, if you have a set of proper nut drivers, you can remove
and reapply all the nuts from even a big panel in about two
minutes.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN
class=985481719-09112020></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN class=985481719-09112020>The
only problem with panel PCBs is that it is somewhat difficult to solder in
switches and get them perfectly aligned. However, I have a simple solution
for this. I just take a piece of waste plank and drill a row of 1/4" holes
in it which correspond to the switch spacing to make a jig, then I put the
switches upsidedown in the holes. This keeps them perfectly aligned while
I solder them to the PCB. If you have something sharp and pointy, you can
even use the actual PCB to mark the plank for drilling -- no measuring
required! If you use a standard switch spacing, you can even reuse these
jigs for other panels.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN
class=985481719-09112020></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial><SPAN class=985481719-09112020>LEDs
can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not be at the
correct height for poking through the panel. The best way to install LEDs
is to first install all of the other components, then stuff the LED leads
into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at least a few
nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel sits
upsidedown on the bench. In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
height. I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> info synthcube.com
[mailto:info@synthcube.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, 2020 10:53
AM<BR><B>To:</B> jpdesroc@oricom.ca; tom@electricdruid.net; 'David G
Dixon'<BR><B>Cc:</B> 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy@synth-diy.org'<BR><B>Subject:</B>
RE: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely
..<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 3px; LINE-HEIGHT: 1.6; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; FONT-STYLE: normal; PADDING-LEFT: 3px; PADDING-RIGHT: 3px; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; PADDING-TOP: 3px">[<STRONG>CAUTION:</STRONG>
Non-UBC Email]</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN>
<DIV class=WordSection1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Papyrus; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Even with
the units mess, the evolution of a family of similar-height parts that,
together, make for reasonable panel pcbs for 5U pcb designs is very exciting.
Pete Hartman did the 5U panel pcb for the Klee Sequencer in MOTM and it really
simplifies the DIY construction, unless you’re hell bent on panel wiring.
<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Papyrus; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Papyrus; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #e1e1e1 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> Synth-diy
<synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org> <B>On Behalf Of </B>Jean-Pierre
Desrochers<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 9, 2020 1:40 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
tom@electricdruid.net; 'David G Dixon' <dixon@mail.ubc.ca><BR><B>Cc:</B>
'john slee' <indigoid@oldcorollas.org>; 'Synth-diy@synth-diy.org'
<synth-diy@synth-diy.org><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960
sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely
..<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=FR-CA>Agree !<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR>De :</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" lang=FR> Synth-diy [<A
href="mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org">mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org</A>]
<B>De la part de</B> Tom Wiltshire<BR><B>Envoyé :</B> 9 novembre 2020
13:15<BR><B>À :</B> David G Dixon<BR><B>Cc :</B> john slee; <A
href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR><B>Objet :</B>
Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely
..<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>Hang on…3/8” bushing, 1/2” nut, and…6mm
shaft?!?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>Honestly, the electronics world is such a
mess with units.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>Tom<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>==================<BR>
Electric Druid<BR>Synth & Stompbox
DIY<BR>==================<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>On 9 Nov 2020, at 17:48, David G Dixon
<<A href="mailto:dixon@mail.ubc.ca">dixon@mail.ubc.ca</A>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA>Let me just put in a plug here for the new-style PCB-mount 16mm Alpha
pots. These have solder tabs which are 0.1" closer to the body than the
older ones, and they have much beefier 3/8" shanks (the same as 1/4" jacks) and
appear to be made out of a higher-quality metal. I buy mine from Small
Bear, and I have been very very happy with them -- here is the
URL:</SPAN><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA><A
href="http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-single-gang-16mm-pc-mount-6-mm-shaft/">http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-single-gang-16mm-pc-mount-6-mm-shaft/</A></SPAN><SPAN
lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA>These pots are exactly the same height as the Taiway PCB-mount
mini-toggle switches that I also buy from Small Bear; for example, the SPDT
On-On ones here:</SPAN><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA><A
href="http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/spdt-on-on-pc-mount/">http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/spdt-on-on-pc-mount/</A></SPAN><SPAN
lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA>Small Bear also stocks (at my request) 1/4 switching
PCB-mount Switchcraft jacks, but these are not the same height as the pots
and switches, so they require a separate PCB at a different height:</SPAN><SPAN
lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA><A
href="http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/1-4-in-mono-n-c-switch-enclosed-pc-mount-switchcraft-112apcx/">http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/1-4-in-mono-n-c-switch-enclosed-pc-mount-switchcraft-112apcx/</A></SPAN><SPAN
lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial',sans-serif; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=FR-CA>With these and some layout art, you can make a very nice panel PCB
with very little wiring.</SPAN><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" class=MsoNormal align=center>
<HR align=center SIZE=2 width="100%">
</DIV>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt" class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> Synth-diy [<A
href="mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org">mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org</A>]
<B>On Behalf Of </B>john slee<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, 2020 1:29
AM<BR><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR><B>Subject:</B>
Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely
..</SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND: #ffecb3; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 9pt"
lang=FR-CA>[<STRONG>CAUTION:</STRONG> Non-UBC Email]</SPAN><SPAN lang=FR-CA>
<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>Like yourself and David I also wondered
about a panel PCB, being thoroughly allergic to wiring. But sometimes finding
parts that are both what you want *and* close enough to each other in height...
can be difficult<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>Regardless, it is a really lovely build, as
Jean-Pierre’s builds always seem to be, and I particularly like that much or all
of the logic stuff has been wrapped up into
firmware.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>John<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>On Mon, 9 Nov 2020 at 20:17, Roman Sowa
<<A href="mailto:modular@go2.pl">modular@go2.pl</A>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: #cccccc 1pt solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5pt 4.8pt; PADDING-LEFT: 6pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN lang=FR-CA>One thing I hated the most while
refurbishing 960 was the wiring. There <BR>are places where several wires,
maybe 5 or 6 are soldered in 1cm2 area <BR>with not a milimeter of spare wire
to pull. I mean it's one of the <BR>earliest examples of non-repairable thing
so popular now in smartphone <BR>industry. You could take it all apart like
panel, all PCBs, and all the <BR>controls alone would still hold together in
grid, so many wires.<BR>And it looks like you're going the same path, so...
good luck.<BR>As it was said already, maybe it's good time to consider making
panel <BR>PCB to avoid wiring hell, and move this 50-year old design slightly
<BR>ahead by merely 15 years.<BR><BR>Don't get me wrong, I like what you do,
enjoy your pictures every time, <BR>and I'm impressed by how you still make
this thing while the rest of the <BR>world seems to waste time on pointless
wars.<BR><BR>Roman<BR><BR><BR>W dniu 2020-11-09 o 00:30, Jean-Pierre
Desrochers pisze:<BR>><BR>> Hi all,<BR>><BR>> Just to show you
where I’m going so far in my Moog 960 sequencer clone <BR>>
project..<BR>><BR>> I’m happy with the actual (not finished yet)
results..<BR>><BR>> Here <<A
href="http://www.arcenson.com/public/Moog_960_clone/"
target=_blank>http://www.arcenson.com/public/Moog_960_clone/</A>> is the
link to <BR>> some pictures:<BR>><BR>> The first 2 pictures show the
front panel made out from<BR>><BR>> a thin 5 mils PCB with no copper.
Spray glued to the metal plate then <BR>> all punched.<BR>><BR>> The
last picture shows an empty IC socket.. That’s the PIC micro who <BR>> will
actually<BR>><BR>> do all the original Flip-Flop circuitry
jobs..<BR>><BR>> I’m building two of these !<BR>><BR>> I LOVE IT
!!!!!<BR>><BR>> JP<BR>><BR>><BR>>
_______________________________________________<BR>> Synth-diy mailing
list<BR>> <A href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org"
target=_blank>Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR>> <A
href="http://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy"
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Selling or trading? Use <A href="mailto:marketplace@synth-diy.org"
target=_blank>marketplace@synth-diy.org</A><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Synth-diy
mailing list<BR><A href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org"
target=_blank>Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR><A
href="http://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy"
target=_blank>http://synth-diy.org/mailman/listinfo/synth-diy</A><BR>Selling
or trading? Use <A href="mailto:marketplace@synth-diy.org"
target=_blank>marketplace@synth-diy.org</A><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
lang=FR-CA>_______________________________________________<BR>Synth-diy mailing
list<BR><A
href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR><A
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