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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Hi Jeremie,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>I use an HP Laser Jet MFP 130fw. It was about $100, and
it doesn't run too hot. It's not as nice as the old beige cubes (2100M)
but my last beige cube bit the dust a year or so ago.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>To address Gordon's comment, yes, for general PCB work you'd
be far better off learning KiCAD or something else "real" but the Excel thing
works for me.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Cheers,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=037363723-02112020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Dave</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Jérémie Salles
[mailto:jeremie.salles@hotmail.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 02, 2020
5:30 AM<BR><B>To:</B> David G Dixon<BR><B>Cc:</B>
synth-diy@synth-diy.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [sdiy] favorite Youtube genre -
"old guys repairing electronics"<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
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Non-UBC Email]</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN>
<DIV dir=ltr>Hi David,
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>That’s really a great process. Thanks for sharing. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Which laser printer model are you using? I have a brother laser printer
HL1112 but I heart that transfer won’t work due to toner issue? Do you have any
experience using a brother laser printer for transfer? What would you
recommend?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Jeremie. <BR><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr>Sent from my iPhone
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>Private & Confidential<BR>The information contained in this email
message is intended only for the use of the recipient or entity to whom it is
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e-mail.</SPAN></DIV></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">On 1 Nov 2020, at 18:09, David G Dixon
<dixon@mail.ubc.ca> wrote:<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 8.00.6001.23562">
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Part Two...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Next, I turn all the traces black and superimpose the
Pads on them to make the Transfer pic. This is what gets
printed onto PnP Blue transfer paper:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><IMG border=0 hspace=0
alt="" align=baseline src="cid:037363723@02112020-2AE8"></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Finally, I copy the Transfer pic, cover it with a
translucent rectangle, and superimpose the Parts pic on top of
that. This makes up the Guide pic, which is what I look at when stuffing
the board:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><IMG border=0 hspace=0
alt="" align=baseline src="cid:037363723@02112020-2AEF"></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>This is what the board ultimately looks like. Using
this Guide pic to stuff boards is infinitely easier for me than stuffing
silkscreened boards. All the colour codes and cap values are
there. I can also wire the panel from this pic if it isn't too
complicated. Stuffing and soldering a board this size takes me
about half an hour. The longest part is actually making the jumpers,
which I do with a piece of broken protoboard while sitting in front of the
TV.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>All of this is done in Excel 2003 (in Windows
XP). After the actual Layout, making the subsequent pictures
takes all of 10 or 15 minutes. When I'm done, I have a nice PCB layout
that I can use again and again.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=905444917-31102020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Actually making the boards is pretty easy. Print,
transfer (using a T-shirt press -- the best $300 I ever spent), etch (in an
HCl/H2O2 solution), drill (using a drill press -- the best $165 I ever spent
-- I wore out my first drill press after 10 years of PCB making), tin (with
Liquid Tin solution that I make myself), and it's ready to stuff. The
entire process takes about half an hour for a board this size. Hence,
for something of this complexity, I can sit down from scratch after dinner and
have a working prototype up and running well before bedtime that is nice
enough to sell to other people.</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Synth-diy
[mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>sleepy_dog@gmx.de<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 31, 2020 4:57
AM<BR><B>To:</B> synth-diy@synth-diy.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [sdiy]
favorite Youtube genre - "old guys repairing electronics"<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><SPAN
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Non-UBC Email]</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN>
<DIV class=moz-cite-prefix><BR>Heh. If I need something quickly, cant wait for
PCB, but also it does have certain physical dimension requirements,<BR>then I
do get really "boring" and do "plan" perfboard - "what is the fun in that"
someone asked - indeed, what is the fun in that sort of tedious, repetitive
work alltogether?<BR>Better make it as short as, and least error prone
possible. It's so much easier to reason about misbehavior of a circuit if it
actually matches what you have drawn - at least from the obvious (not
parasitic) components and their supposed connections.<BR>While it's perhaps
reasonabnly unlikely to make mistakes if you have all the space in the world
and basically solder together the circuit as-is-drawn on some big ass
perfboard, also leaving lots of room for adding more stuff to
experiment,<BR>as things get more crowded and less intuitively placed, I found
the following to be helpful:<BR><BR>First of all, esp. for single-sided
perfboard, I like to combine THT ICs with SMT 0805 passives, as you can often
put them comfortably between legs and under the IC (on the bottom side of the
board), that already saves a lot of space - and wiring effort.<BR>There are
also these, often green, plated-through double-sided perfboards - may reduce
the insulated connections you have to make (which take longer due to the need
for burning away the insulation / tinning), e.g. all GND with silver wire on
the bottom, +V on the top side, or so, other nets with insulated wire, where
unconnected crossings would be at least.<BR><BR>Also, in the type of scenario
where I would, if I could, prefer a small PCB, but don't want to wait,<BR>I
might already have a captured schematic in my chosen EDA software anyway - or
if it's small, I'll just do it quickly.<BR>Then convert to PCB, and usually
don't route anything, or at best a few special traces to mark special
preferences.<BR><BR>I put that on my small-ish tablet with stylus support,
that actually fits on my crowded soldering bench.<BR>that also runs the EDA
software. Then I:<BR><BR>foreach non-GND-net:<BR> highlight
net in PCB software<BR> connect all net points in circuit
with insulated "coil wire", point-to-point<BR> hide net's
ratlines (or color existing traces) to make visible what's still TODO - this
shrinks more and more, and you can see the light at the end of the
tunnel<BR><BR>This, for me anyway, proved much less error prone than staring
on a paper printout and comparing it with the current physical as-is schematic
all the time (even when pencil checking traces ;) ).<BR>Can basically do that
half-asleep without making a mistake. (just make sure to display the bottom
side mirrored appropriately :D)<BR><BR>Then for the GND net I do the above,
except I user silver coated copper wire, a bit sturdier, and wherever
possible, do not cut, but bend around corners, using one long piece of wire
across many connections, saving some work steps. The silver wire will be over
all those coil wires, holding them in place a bit better, esp. longer ones,
and make it less likely that you will rip off any connection by accidentally
grabbing too hard anywhere.<BR><BR><BR>- Steve<BR><BR><BR>Am 31.10.2020 um
11:23 schrieb ShedSynth:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid:067401d6af6f$e27cd1f0$a77675d0$@gmail.com type="cite">
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<DIV class=WordSection1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Hi
all.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use
perfboard, but I don’t try to make it into a PCB.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I wire
point-to-point with single core Kynar wire, normally used for
wire-wrapping.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use blue,
black, red and yellow on the back for -12V, GND, +5V and
+12V.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use green for
all signals, always on the component side.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I lay out the
big things like pots, DIL sockets and capacitors on the board itself, and
always try to leave rows of 4 holes to place resistors
flat.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Then I follow
the schematic, which might take several days – this isn’t a mass-production
process.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I separate each
functional block with a pair of pins + a jumper so I can test on the scope
as I go and also so I can bodge blocks of completed circuits into something
else.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Hope this might
help somebody,<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Al<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US"><O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">If the picture
comes through, it’s most of a Thomas Henry MAXIMUS 3340
VCO.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">The front is
just as ugly.<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><IMG style="WIDTH: 3.281in; HEIGHT: 4.718in"
id=Picture_x0020_3 src="cid:037363723@02112020-2AF6" width=315
height=453><SPAN style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US"><O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US"><O:P></O:P></SPAN></P>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0cm; PADDING-LEFT: 0cm; PADDING-RIGHT: 0cm; BORDER-TOP: #e1e1e1 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN lang=EN-US>From:</SPAN></B><SPAN lang=EN-US>
Synth-diy <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org"><synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org></A>
<B>On Behalf Of </B>Timothy Burns<BR><B>Sent:</B> 30 October 2020
15:17<BR><B>Cc:</B> SYNTH DIY <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:synth-diy@synth-diy.org"><synth-diy@synth-diy.org></A><BR><B>Subject:</B>
Re: [sdiy] favorite Youtube genre - "old guys repairing
electronics"<O:P></O:P></SPAN></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><IMG style="WIDTH: 2.333in; HEIGHT: 2.062in"
id=Picture_x0020_1 src="cid:037363723@02112020-2AFD" width=224
height=198><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Good lord, I wish I watched this yesterday. Also what the
heck, did he <I>plan</I> before he started soldering in components? What fun
is that?<O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Thanks for the suggestions of video and audio channels,
this will be great to have on hand as I re-solder everything from the last
36 hours. <O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>I'm not saying I'm going to start now, but does anyone
have suggestions software or shortcuts for planning perfboard builds?
Fritzling? (Asking for a friend.) <O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Thanks All!<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Tim<O:P></O:P></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 10:34 AM Ryan B8S <<A
href="mailto:ryan@pimpdroid.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">ryan@pimpdroid.com</A>>
wrote:<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
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<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Not an old guy, but I can't believe no one
mentioned Synth Chaser at Synth Chaser dot com.<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><A href="https://www.youtube.com/c/SynthChaser/videos"
target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/c/SynthChaser/videos</A><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>My favorite youtube channel by an order of
magnitude.<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>On Wed, Oct 21, 2020 at 7:08 PM David Simpson <<A
href="mailto:davidosimpson@gmail.com" target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true">davidosimpson@gmail.com</A>>
wrote:<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: #cccccc 1pt solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0cm; PADDING-LEFT: 6pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0cm; MARGIN-LEFT: 4.8pt; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 0cm">
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>I recently found this video and was astonished by the
skill, technique quietude ala Bob Villa.<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><A href="https://youtu.be/_ypW45Y8VSs" target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true">How to solder grid style PCB / 555 PWM DC-motor
driver (EEEL1-3)</A><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>What are your favorite channels for
informative/instructive electronics repair? Preferable those who don't
yell or are in a constant state of outrage...<O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><BR clear=all><O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><O:P></O:P></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>-- <O:P></O:P></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>david o. simpson | cameraperson | <A
href="http://binarymob.com" target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true">binarymob.com</A> |
earth<O:P></O:P></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P
class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________<BR>Synth-diy
mailing list<BR><A href="mailto:Synth-diy@synth-diy.org" target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true">Synth-diy@synth-diy.org</A><BR><A
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<P
class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________<BR>Synth-diy
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