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<div dir="ltr">Hi David,
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<div>That’s really a great process. Thanks for sharing. </div>
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<div>Which laser printer model are you using? I have a brother laser printer HL1112 but I heart that transfer won’t work due to toner issue? Do you have any experience using a brother laser printer for transfer? What would you recommend?</div>
<div><br>
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<div>Jeremie. <br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone
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<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On 1 Nov 2020, at 18:09, David G Dixon <dixon@mail.ubc.ca> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Part Two...</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Next, I turn all the traces black and superimpose the Pads on them to make the Transfer pic. This is what gets printed onto PnP Blue transfer paper:</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><img border="0" hspace="0" alt="" align="baseline" src="cid:905444917@31102020-0CCB"></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Finally, I copy the Transfer pic, cover it with a translucent rectangle, and superimpose the Parts pic on top of that. This makes up the Guide pic, which
is what I look at when stuffing the board:</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><img border="0" hspace="0" alt="" align="baseline" src="cid:905444917@31102020-0CD2"></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">This is what the board ultimately looks like. Using this Guide pic to stuff boards is infinitely easier for me than stuffing silkscreened boards. All
the colour codes and cap values are there. I can also wire the panel from this pic if it isn't too complicated. Stuffing and soldering a board this size takes me about half an hour. The longest part is actually making the jumpers, which I do with a piece
of broken protoboard while sitting in front of the TV.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">All of this is done in Excel 2003 (in Windows XP). After the actual Layout, making the subsequent pictures takes all of 10 or 15 minutes. When I'm done,
I have a nice PCB layout that I can use again and again.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="905444917-31102020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Actually making the boards is pretty easy. Print, transfer (using a T-shirt press -- the best $300 I ever spent), etch (in an HCl/H2O2 solution), drill
(using a drill press -- the best $165 I ever spent -- I wore out my first drill press after 10 years of PCB making), tin (with Liquid Tin solution that I make myself), and it's ready to stuff. The entire process takes about half an hour for a board this size.
Hence, for something of this complexity, I can sit down from scratch after dinner and have a working prototype up and running well before bedtime that is nice enough to sell to other people.</font></span></div>
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<hr tabindex="-1">
<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>sleepy_dog@gmx.de<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 31, 2020 4:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> synth-diy@synth-diy.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [sdiy] favorite Youtube genre - "old guys repairing electronics"<br>
</font><br>
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<div></div>
<span style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><span style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px"><span style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 3px; LINE-HEIGHT: 1.6; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffecb3; FONT-STYLE: normal; PADDING-LEFT: 3px; PADDING-RIGHT: 3px; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; PADDING-TOP: 3px">[<strong>CAUTION:</strong>
Non-UBC Email]</span></span></span>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
Heh. If I need something quickly, cant wait for PCB, but also it does have certain physical dimension requirements,<br>
then I do get really "boring" and do "plan" perfboard - "what is the fun in that" someone asked - indeed, what is the fun in that sort of tedious, repetitive work alltogether?<br>
Better make it as short as, and least error prone possible. It's so much easier to reason about misbehavior of a circuit if it actually matches what you have drawn - at least from the obvious (not parasitic) components and their supposed connections.<br>
While it's perhaps reasonabnly unlikely to make mistakes if you have all the space in the world and basically solder together the circuit as-is-drawn on some big ass perfboard, also leaving lots of room for adding more stuff to experiment,<br>
as things get more crowded and less intuitively placed, I found the following to be helpful:<br>
<br>
First of all, esp. for single-sided perfboard, I like to combine THT ICs with SMT 0805 passives, as you can often put them comfortably between legs and under the IC (on the bottom side of the board), that already saves a lot of space - and wiring effort.<br>
There are also these, often green, plated-through double-sided perfboards - may reduce the insulated connections you have to make (which take longer due to the need for burning away the insulation / tinning), e.g. all GND with silver wire on the bottom, +V
on the top side, or so, other nets with insulated wire, where unconnected crossings would be at least.<br>
<br>
Also, in the type of scenario where I would, if I could, prefer a small PCB, but don't want to wait,<br>
I might already have a captured schematic in my chosen EDA software anyway - or if it's small, I'll just do it quickly.<br>
Then convert to PCB, and usually don't route anything, or at best a few special traces to mark special preferences.<br>
<br>
I put that on my small-ish tablet with stylus support, that actually fits on my crowded soldering bench.<br>
that also runs the EDA software. Then I:<br>
<br>
foreach non-GND-net:<br>
highlight net in PCB software<br>
connect all net points in circuit with insulated "coil wire", point-to-point<br>
hide net's ratlines (or color existing traces) to make visible what's still TODO - this shrinks more and more, and you can see the light at the end of the tunnel<br>
<br>
This, for me anyway, proved much less error prone than staring on a paper printout and comparing it with the current physical as-is schematic all the time (even when pencil checking traces ;) ).<br>
Can basically do that half-asleep without making a mistake. (just make sure to display the bottom side mirrored appropriately :D)<br>
<br>
Then for the GND net I do the above, except I user silver coated copper wire, a bit sturdier, and wherever possible, do not cut, but bend around corners, using one long piece of wire across many connections, saving some work steps. The silver wire will be over
all those coil wires, holding them in place a bit better, esp. longer ones, and make it less likely that you will rip off any connection by accidentally grabbing too hard anywhere.<br>
<br>
<br>
- Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
Am 31.10.2020 um 11:23 schrieb ShedSynth:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Hi all.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use perfboard, but I don’t try to make it into a PCB.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I wire point-to-point with single core Kynar wire, normally used for wire-wrapping.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use blue, black, red and yellow on the back for -12V, GND, +5V and +12V.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I use green for all signals, always on the component side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I lay out the big things like pots, DIL sockets and capacitors on the board itself, and always try to leave rows of 4 holes to place resistors flat.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Then I follow the schematic, which might take several days – this isn’t a mass-production process.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">I separate each functional block with a pair of pins + a jumper so I can test on the scope as I go and also so I can bodge blocks of completed circuits into something else.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Hope this might help somebody,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">Al<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">If the picture comes through, it’s most of a Thomas Henry MAXIMUS 3340 VCO.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US">The front is just as ugly.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> Synth-diy
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org"><synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Timothy Burns<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 30 October 2020 15:17<br>
<b>Cc:</b> SYNTH DIY <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:synth-diy@synth-diy.org">
<synth-diy@synth-diy.org></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [sdiy] favorite Youtube genre - "old guys repairing electronics"<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Good lord, I wish I watched this yesterday. Also what the heck, did he
<i>plan</i> before he started soldering in components? What fun is that?<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks for the suggestions of video and audio channels, this will be great to have on hand as I re-solder everything from the last 36 hours. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I'm not saying I'm going to start now, but does anyone have suggestions software or shortcuts for planning perfboard builds? Fritzling? (Asking for a friend.) <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks All!<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Tim<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Fri, Oct 30, 2020 at 10:34 AM Ryan B8S <<a href="mailto:ryan@pimpdroid.com" moz-do-not-send="true">ryan@pimpdroid.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Not an old guy, but I can't believe no one mentioned Synth Chaser at Synth Chaser dot com.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/SynthChaser/videos" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/c/SynthChaser/videos</a><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">My favorite youtube channel by an order of magnitude.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Oct 21, 2020 at 7:08 PM David Simpson <<a href="mailto:davidosimpson@gmail.com" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">davidosimpson@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I recently found this video and was astonished by the skill, technique quietude ala Bob Villa.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://youtu.be/_ypW45Y8VSs" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">How to solder grid style PCB / 555 PWM DC-motor driver (EEEL1-3)</a><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">What are your favorite channels for informative/instructive electronics repair? Preferable those who don't yell or are in a constant state of outrage...<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">-- <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">david o. simpson | cameraperson | <a href="http://binarymob.com" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">
binarymob.com</a> | earth<o:p></o:p></p>
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