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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=156463719-19092020><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>DItto -- what Oren said. Make the pins 0.6" apart.
I'd buy that.</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader align=left>
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<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Synth-diy
[mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Oren
Leavitt<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, September 19, 2020 11:24 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
synth-diy@synth-diy.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [sdiy]
SSI2130<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Looks nice!</P>
<P>Why not just go with a 0.6 inch wide DIP format? It'll fit a standard 0.6
wide DIP socket and you'll have a little more wiggle room.</P>
<P>It's a VCOduino!</P>
<P>- Oren<BR></P>
<DIV class=moz-cite-prefix>On 9/19/20 12:40 PM, Pete Hartman wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
cite=mid:CACodTR9aL30VqHSvb6B5086WrO2wbKAajh4dakib8Jxw+wxFUg@mail.gmail.com
type="cite">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV dir=ltr>I was inspired last night to take a crack at the idea of a
breakout that could have the chip pre-soldered. I don't normally do a
lot of work with finer pitch SMD so I found I had to use fairly fine traces to
route to the pins with the chip rotated (which seemed to make the most sense,
since going to a DIP form factor). Necking in KiCad is not something
I've mastered and I didn't spend a lot of time when I found it wasn't working
the way I thought the descriptions online said it should. PS: not
looking for a debate about CAD packages ;).
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I'm curious if any of the more experienced would have any opinions they'd
care to offer? Full disclosure: the intent is for this to be sold as a
DIY tool, so if providing advice for what might become a low volume commercial
product is a concern, by all means, don't feel like you are obligated to
comment.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>First the images. I'm also sending pictures to the list for the
first time, so if for some reason this doesn't work, I can always throw links
to my google drive up pretty quickly.<BR><BR>
<DIV><IMG alt="Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.05.02PM.png"
src="cid:156463719@19092020-1943" width=236 height=562>
<IMG alt="Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.06.12PM.png"
src="cid:156463719@19092020-194A" width=249 height=562></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I liked the idea of having the regulator(s) on board, so I dug around to
find a couple that seemed likely. I did find that -V regulators were
significantly more expensive (Q100 of both of these are under $0.30,
Q10, and I didn't look for Q100, of even a pretty basic - regulator was on the
order of $3.00). Since the chips tolerates up to -18V I decided to
forego a regulator on the negative rail.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>The V+ equivalent pin feeds the TLV1117-50, and that 5V feeds the
MCP1700-25 as well as the actual V+ pin on the chip. I figured someone
might want to use their own different 2.5V reference so I put a normally
closed set of jumper pads that could be cut if preferred (like the USB power
on a teensy, for example). This also allows you to take the 2.5V
reference *off* the pin if you wanted to use it for expo scaling, or through
zero, etc. Sitting here this morning I am thinking it might be a good
idea to provide an extra pin at the top edge so the 5V reference could be
treated similarly. I don't think I could do exactly the same thing
because there has to be some way for the higher voltage to get onto the
breakout.<BR><BR>All the caps are 0603, which is about as small as I'd want to
hand solder; although I do not intend to hand solder it myself, I figured
leaving the option open even if just for prototyping seemed like a good
idea. Same idea behind using "handsolder" footprints for the regulator
& reference.<BR><BR>It's half an inch between the rows of pins and .7"
wide by 1.7" long total.</DIV><BR>Thoughts?<BR><BR>Thanks!</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Pete</DIV></DIV></DIV><BR>
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