<html><head></head><body style="zoom: 0%;"><div dir="auto">Yup. Id buy those with the wider format.<br><br></div>
<div dir="auto">James</div>
<div class="gmail_quote" >On Sep 19, 2020, at 2:45 PM, David G Dixon <<a href="mailto:dixon@mail.ubc.ca" target="_blank">dixon@mail.ubc.ca</a>> wrote:<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
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<span class="156463719-19092020"><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">DItto -- what Oren said. Make the pins 0.6" apart. I'd buy that.</font></span>
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<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces@synth-diy.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oren Leavitt<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 19, 2020 11:24 AM<br><b>To:</b> synth-diy@synth-diy.org<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [sdiy] SSI2130<br></font>
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<p>Looks nice!</p>
<p>Why not just go with a 0.6 inch wide DIP format? It'll fit a standard 0.6 wide DIP socket and you'll have a little more wiggle room.</p>
<p>It's a VCOduino!</p>
<p>- Oren<br></p>
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On 9/19/20 12:40 PM, Pete Hartman wrote:
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I was inspired last night to take a crack at the idea of a breakout that could have the chip pre-soldered. I don't normally do a lot of work with finer pitch SMD so I found I had to use fairly fine traces to route to the pins with the chip rotated (which seemed to make the most sense, since going to a DIP form factor). Necking in KiCad is not something I've mastered and I didn't spend a lot of time when I found it wasn't working the way I thought the descriptions online said it should. PS: not looking for a debate about CAD packages ;).
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I'm curious if any of the more experienced would have any opinions they'd care to offer? Full disclosure: the intent is for this to be sold as a DIY tool, so if providing advice for what might become a low volume commercial product is a concern, by all means, don't feel like you are obligated to comment.
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First the images. I'm also sending pictures to the list for the first time, so if for some reason this doesn't work, I can always throw links to my google drive up pretty quickly.
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<img alt="Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.05.02PM.png" src="cid:156463719@19092020-1943" width="236" height="562">
<img alt="Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.06.12PM.png" src="cid:156463719@19092020-194A" width="249" height="562">
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I liked the idea of having the regulator(s) on board, so I dug around to find a couple that seemed likely. I did find that -V regulators were significantly more expensive (Q100 of both of these are under $0.30, Q10, and I didn't look for Q100, of even a pretty basic - regulator was on the order of $3.00). Since the chips tolerates up to -18V I decided to forego a regulator on the negative rail.
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The V+ equivalent pin feeds the TLV1117-50, and that 5V feeds the MCP1700-25 as well as the actual V+ pin on the chip. I figured someone might want to use their own different 2.5V reference so I put a normally closed set of jumper pads that could be cut if preferred (like the USB power on a teensy, for example). This also allows you to take the 2.5V reference *off* the pin if you wanted to use it for expo scaling, or through zero, etc. Sitting here this morning I am thinking it might be a good idea to provide an extra pin at the top edge so the 5V reference could be treated similarly. I don't think I could do exactly the same thing because there has to be some way for the higher voltage to get onto the breakout.
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<br>All the caps are 0603, which is about as small as I'd want to hand solder; although I do not intend to hand solder it myself, I figured leaving the option open even if just for prototyping seemed like a good idea. Same idea behind using "handsolder" footprints for the regulator & reference.
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<br>It's half an inch between the rows of pins and .7" wide by 1.7" long total.
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<br>Thoughts?
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<br>Thanks!
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<br>Pete
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