<div dir="ltr"><span style="font-size:12.8px">**** I'm still investigating on this, probably after completing the restoration of my beloved Soundtracs FM-16 i'll be back to the Juno and try to find a correct socket for the easy swaps.</span><br><div><span style="font-size:12.8px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8px">K</span></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">2017-11-29 20:22 GMT+01:00 KRiSh <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:krish0005@gmail.com" target="_blank">krish0005@gmail.com</a>></span>:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">I have a 106 with 1 VCA always "open". <div><br></div><div>I already replaced all sliders (19 sliders including the Bender ones) + all 34 switch to it. <div><br></div><div>Feels like new now, only that voice is needing repair now.<br><div><br></div><div>I have rescued 4 voices from a friend's Juno that are supposed to be working (he decided to change all of them with the AnalogReinassance ones).</div><div><br></div><div>My intention would be to remove the broken voice, then soak in acetone the broken one and the working ones,</div><div>then try to fix the broken one and if not successful then swap it with one of the other working ones.</div><div><br></div><div>To do this easily, i'd like to find a 12 pin socket that does not require the original terminals of the voice cards to be removed and resoldered with other terminals compatible with common sockets found around the web while looking for solutions on forums videos.</div><div><br></div><div>Those sockets have bigger holes than the originals on the board, thus needing thicker terminals, but we all know removing and resoldering terminals on those voices is potentially dangerous for the integrated circuits aside (you don't want to heat them too much...).</div><div><br></div><div>Never found discussions about board level resoldering afterward nor about death of the voices depending the date code actually:</div><div>if you have links to them please share.</div><div><br></div><div>I always thought that the epoxy on the voice modules is causing overheating and that is what causes the slow death of the rare unobtaniums custom ICs underneath.</div><div><br></div><div>I'm still investigating on this, probably after restoring </div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">2017-11-29 20:05 GMT+01:00 MTG <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:grant@musictechnologiesgroup.com" target="_blank">grant@musictechnologiesgroup.<wbr>com</a>></span>:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">It would be nice to find out what the definitive "fix" is for these, aside from replacement. I've seen discussions talking about arbitrary acetone soaking. Other ones discussing the length of time depending on the date code, and yet another discussing that it's not the acetone at all, it's the board level resoldering you have to do afterward.<br>
<br>
I have an MKS30 waiting for me.<div class="m_-4314838112633094407HOEnZb"><div class="m_-4314838112633094407h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/29/2017 10:53 AM, NSSINC wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<br>
I like fixing stuff. I like the Juno-106. But I have grown tired of fixing my brother's 106 every few months. We don't even bother calibrating it anymore.<br>
<br>
So I'm looking for list members opinions of this guys replacement filter chips:<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.analoguerenaissance.com/AR80017A/" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.analoguerenaissance<wbr>.com/AR80017A/</a><br>
<br>
And if anyone in the US has opinions on weather it's better to order direct or from Syntaur.<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
<br>
-Al<br>
<br>
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