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<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
> What I also like about the SMD world is the diversity of
parts :)<br>
<br>
Oh yeah, like this part which is only available as LGA12 (2 x 2
mm˛, 0.5mm pin pitch)<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://postimg.org/image/6u7jilc85/">https://postimg.org/image/6u7jilc85/</a><br>
<br>
The "dead bug" to the left. (glued on with 2 component glue, then
soldered)<br>
Did that today under the Leica EZ4 stereo microscope @ work, on a
standard 2.54mm (0.1 in) perfboard.<br>
There is no devboard yet for that part, so I did it this way.<br>
Btw, the grey goo coming through some hols left to the cictuit is
a playdoh like mass called "blue tack"(sp?), which is nice for
sticking fiddly little boards to the bottom of the microscope for
stable sodlering, and quickly changing the orientation etc. Very
handy.<br>
The IC to the right has 4 outer pins which fit on 4 copper pads,
the middle pin is bent up and soldered in the air. (precise
tweezers for the win)<br>
For SOICs I sometimes split the copper eyes in half (2 scratches
with sharp knife to properly cut contact), and presto, there are
1.27 pads. (which won't work with crappy perfboards where the
copper eyes are not strongly attached even if not split ;) )<br>
(for those wondering why I bothered glueing the electrolytics on
prototype board: the IC is an accelerometer, and I intend to shake
the hell out of this board)<br>
<br>
Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
Am 20.07.2017 um 10:39 schrieb <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:paula@synth.net">paula@synth.net</a>:<br>
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type="cite">
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<p>Interesting debate,</p>
<p>My tuppence if I may.</p>
<p>Soldering a 16 pin SOIC of TQFP is far quicker than a through
hole 16 pin DIL. Unsoldering either can be a nightmare if the
board has large power/ground planes</p>
<p>For prototyping I'm happy to do boards with around 200 parts,
but for more than 3 or 4 boards I would always outsource. I have
the same problem with through hole, its BORING doing the same
board 10 times (I did this with the monowave, 30 of them with
1500 solder joints on each, never again!</p>
<p>I personally love the challenge of making boards small, in my
current work project I've taken a board that was 100mm by 80mm,
shrunk it to 63mm by 26mm, and now shrunk it to 30 x 14mm, I'm
using QFNs and 0402s (with the odd 0603 that I couldn't get in
0402) and a couple of 0201's to try (just 0ohm jumpers). I've
also reduced part count and cost significantly in the process.
It's really not hard, but and I'll say it again, for more than 4
or so, I'd outsource it (same would be true if I did a through
hole board).</p>
<p>I think a lot depends on your intended market and purpose, for
work, it needs to be small, as small as small can be, if not
smaller. But if you're making things for home and you're happy
with through hole, stick with it :)</p>
<p>What I also like about the SMD world is the diversity of parts
:)</p>
<p>Just my tuppence worth</p>
<p>Paula</p>
<div> </div>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>On 2017-07-19 00:18, Tom Wiltshire wrote:</p>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding: 0 0.4em; border-left:
#1010ff 2px solid; margin: 0"><!-- html ignored --><!-- head ignored --><!-- meta ignored -->It's
only frustrating until you get some good at it. then it can be
quite rewarding to do something that you initially thought was
impossible. That's pretty much the definition of learning any
new skill, isn't it?
<div>
<div> </div>
<div>Tom</div>
<div><br>
<div>==================<br>
Electric Druid<br>
Synth & Stompbox DIY<br>
==================<br>
<br>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div>On 18 Jul 2017, at 22:23, David G Dixon <<a
moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:dixon@mail.ubc.ca">dixon@mail.ubc.ca</a>>
wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding: 0 0.4em;
border-left: #1010ff 2px solid; margin: 0"><!-- meta ignored -->
<div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span
class="103502221-18072017"><span style="color:
#0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">This
post sums up why I simply will not do SMD by
hand. Not... worth... the... frustration.</span></span></div>
<br>
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="border-left: #0000ff 2px
solid; padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px;
margin-right: 0px;">
<div class="OutlookMessageHeader" dir="ltr"
align="left" lang="en-us">
<hr><span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size:
small;"><strong>From:</strong> Synth-diy
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:synth">mailto:synth</a>-<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:diy-bounces@synth-diy.org">diy-bounces@synth-diy.org</a>]
<strong>On Behalf Of </strong>Elain Klopke<br>
<strong>Sent:</strong> Tuesday, July 18, 2017
12:16 AM<br>
<strong>To:</strong> *SYNTH DIY<br>
<strong>Subject:</strong> [sdiy] Need help with
a SMD kit (OT?)<br>
</span></div>
<div> </div>
<div dir="ltr">Hey list,
<div> </div>
<div>I bought the Elements diy kit from Synthcube
and managed to get all the surface mount
components attached using solder paste, a tiny
syringe, and a hot plate. Everything melted
nicely and I only burnt the solder mask a bit
because I wasn't quick enough getting it off the
hot plate, but the copper traces appear to be
still attached to the board so I'm not too
worried.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>And then the problems started. I let the
board cool down and then started going about
eliminating solder bridges on a couple of the
ICs. I cleaned up one side of the
microcontroller and then made the other three
worse. I got one chip that was a little crooked
seated properly and then another popped free and
I couldn't get it resoldered. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I've stepped away from the kit so I don't do
more damage or throw it against the wall in
frustration.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Is there anyone experienced in surface mount
soldering (preferably in the US) that would be
willing to fix this mess for me. I'm way out of
my depth and am willing to pay postage both ways
and a fee for your time.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks in advance.</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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