<div dir="ltr"><div><div><div>"Magnet wire" might very well be wire-wrap wire. This repair technique is common and often uses a Loctite-brand 444 "Tak Pak". That bit of kit incorporates a gel CA glue and a rapid evaporating chemical accelerant. One end of a repair wire is soldered where needed. The wire is routed along an appropriate path and is tacked every 40-50mm or so. Wherever a "corner" is made in the routing, a tack is also placed at each corner (usually). When the wire reaches its final destination it is stripped and soldered at the proper termination point. The accelerant speeds up the gluing time to a few seconds each ... complete repairs are made quickly.<br><br></div>There are other similar solutions available for immobilizing added conductors. These repairs are generally quite rugged if the PCB is cleaned of contaminants before tacking the wire down. The better the board is cleaned the better adhesion of the CA.<br><br></div>This kind of repair is suitable for industrial use ... we use it all the time and I am unaware of any such repair having failed if applied competently. YMMV.<br><br></div>Tom Farrand<br><br><div><div><div><br><br><br><br></div></div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 8:06 PM, cheater00 cheater00 <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:cheater00@gmail.com" target="_blank">cheater00@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><p dir="ltr">Magnet wire is mechanically fragile and does not survive long unless you leave the device completely alone. It's fine for testing or debugging but that's all. IMO not good for a piece of musical equipment that gets played or even... moved.</p>
<br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Wed, 17 May 2017 20:20 matt holland, <<a href="mailto:matt@mattholland.org" target="_blank">matt@mattholland.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_extra">if i understand you right, new traces on an smd board is not a problem. just get yourself some thin gauge magnet wire and use a little hot glue for strain relief. i do it at work all the time when boards need rework or when wiring out little pin header test point jigs.</div></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_extra"><br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 2:19 PM, cheater00 cheater00 <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:cheater00@gmail.com" target="_blank">cheater00@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><p dir="ltr">If you want to keep the same circuit topology (traces), smd is fine. If you want new traces, smd is a world of pain, and th is perfectly fine due to structural integrity that can hold a daughter pcb.</p><div class="m_-7478882623777296992m_-5598966508924968830HOEnZb"><div class="m_-7478882623777296992m_-5598966508924968830h5">
<br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Sun, 14 May 2017 20:08 Michael Zacherl, <<a href="mailto:sdiy-mz01@blauwurf.info" target="_blank">sdiy-mz01@blauwurf.info</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Roman,<br>
changed the subject ...<br>
<br>
On 14.May 2017, at 19:35 , Roman <<a href="mailto:modular@go2.pl" target="_blank">modular@go2.pl</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> I dare to disagree, SMD alows for better piggybacking IMHO. It's so easy to piggyback any passive component, just hold it on top and heat one side, solder from the bottom one will be enough to hold it in place, so now you can easily do the other side both hands. That's very useful in development, and you actually can't tell at first glance there is something added on top.<br>
> I've done 3-layer piggybacking in 0402 sometimes.<br>
<br>
I can see your point and I’m afraid I wasn’t specific enough in my posting:<br>
I virtually (still) have no SMDs around in my drawers, so it’s through hole components I’m talking about. And the 1/4W resistors and film caps are quite recognisable when glued on.<br>
But it’s doable, mostly.<br>
<br>
> Dnia 13 maja 2017 21:51 Michael Zacherl <<a href="mailto:sdiy-mz01@blauwurf.info" target="_blank">sdiy-mz01@blauwurf.info</a>> napisał(a):<br>
><br>
> The only thing I found harder with SMT is to modify existing designs. Leads from through hole components better allow piggybacking parts IMHO. But that shouldn’t be a reason not to go SMT.<br>
<br>
--<br>
<a href="http://mz.klingt.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mz.klingt.org</a><br>
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