<div dir="ltr">thanks for the info, all. much appreciated.<div><br></div><div><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 10:31 AM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sleepy_dog@gmx.de" target="_blank">sleepy_dog@gmx.de</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><br>
Ah, yeah that wasn't clear maybe, I was assuming boards which are made with hand-soldering considered. I wouldn't make super tight boards with components which are hard to solder without desoldering the *same* component at the other pad unless you use a tiny tip. I find that too much effort. Also, I can get 2-layer boards made much cheaper at a place which can only do 9..10 mil clearance or so anyway with their old tech (it barely works for QFP, with a modified, thinned pattern, but it allegedly does),<br>
which is nicer if I have to pay for it, not the employer ;-)<br>
<br>
Steve<div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
Am 20.05.2016 um 17:30 schrieb Jay Schwichtenberg:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Having good tools and knowing how to do SMDs is one thing and can get a<br>
pretty good job done.<br>
<br>
But the to me the real critical part of doing SMDs is having good eyes and a<br>
steady hand.<br>
<br>
I don't mind doing boards that are SMD meant to be hand soldered verses ones<br>
that were made for machine assembly. Hand soldered ones can use 0805/1206<br>
parts and spread them out. Machine ones usually have 0603s close together. I<br>
have some MI boards and they look doable by hand. But it's going to take<br>
some planning to solder without problems. A lot of the parts are close<br>
together and if you solder one side of one part you'll probably unsolder the<br>
connected side of another part.<br>
<br>
Good luck.<br>
Jay S.<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Synth-diy [mailto:<a href="mailto:synth-diy-bounces@dropmix.xs4all.nl" target="_blank">synth-diy-bounces@dropmix.xs4all.nl</a>] On Behalf Of<br>
<a href="mailto:sleepy_dog@gmx.de" target="_blank">sleepy_dog@gmx.de</a><br>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 4:25 AM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl" target="_blank">synth-diy@dropmix.xs4all.nl</a><br>
Subject: Re: [sdiy] SMD rework equipment<br>
<br>
<br>
Ha!<br>
<br>
And I thought I'm the only one (besides that lively Aussie dude on YT,<br>
and one EE friend) who does his QFP (incl. single pins -> wire) and 0603<br>
soldering with a 3mm chisel tip :-D<br>
And pointy tips *sniff* only for crowded in-case situations. I'm not a<br>
pro, can only say, for me, this works nicely, and I find pointy tips<br>
mostly a PITA to work with.<br>
<br>
Interesting mention of webcams as cheap microscope replacement here... I<br>
might want to try that one out. So far I've done things like, put on<br>
ballistic eye glasses and have my eyes real close to the PCB :-D<br>
<br>
Steve<br>
<br>
Am 20.05.2016 um 09:04 schrieb Roman Sowa:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
The best iron is the one you are feeling comfortable with. Sharp tips<br>
give you access to very dense areas, but they can't give much heat so<br>
working on something bigger than 0402 is not so fun. Has it's use only<br>
where nonthing else can reach. Regular tip and flux gel make wonders.<br>
Stereovision microscope is a must. Magnifying glass leads to dizzyness<br>
and headaches, cameras introduce lag and noise and are only 2D, also<br>
not very nice.<br>
Also helpful: hot tweezers with set of tips for various tasks,<br>
preheater when you have huge board with a lot of copperfill,<br>
soldersucker for cleaning holes from solder, solderwick for cleaning<br>
SMD pads, and good supply of flux gel, maybe also Kapton tape for<br>
protecting near-by-rework area, especially when using hotair gun. And<br>
hot air of course, very popular in rework services, but I never used<br>
it. Did I mention flux gel?<br>
<br>
Roman<br>
<br>
W dniu 2016-05-20 o 02:09, Jason Proctor pisze:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
thanks for the info, all.<br>
<br>
i have a Weller WTCPT iron, which has been a trusty servant. can i make<br>
this iron more suitable for SMT stuff, or are other irons (i see Metcal<br>
is popular) just more appropriate?<br>
<br>
any tips for steadying oldish hands while doing delicate work? i did<br>
wonder whether our EMS had a setup where nothing was hand-held. do such<br>
arrangements exist?<br>
<br>
thanks much!<br>
Jason<br>
<br>
<br>
On Thu, May 19, 2016 at 4:57 PM, charlie wallace<br>
<<a href="mailto:charlie@finitemonkeys.com" target="_blank">charlie@finitemonkeys.com</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:charlie@finitemonkeys.com" target="_blank">charlie@finitemonkeys.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Trinocular boom from amscope with usb camera or a mantis from eBay<br>
Metcal from eBay<br>
Solder sucker<br>
Wiha esd tweezer set<br>
Chip quik<br>
<br>
On May 19, 2016 4:54 PM, "MTG" <<a href="mailto:grant@musictechnologiesgroup.com" target="_blank">grant@musictechnologiesgroup.com</a><br>
<mailto:<a href="mailto:grant@musictechnologiesgroup.com" target="_blank">grant@musictechnologiesgroup.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
<br>
+1 on the scope, -1 on the USB camera. And I have exactly the<br>
same situation regarding taking *my* scope to work and back.<br>
They actually have one at work but it has no light. I use 10x<br>
most of the time on the microscope and rarely x30. My scope was<br>
not much over $100 USD and I've no complaints.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.amscope.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.amscope.com</a> <<a href="http://www.amscope.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.amscope.com</a>><br>
<br>
GB<br>
<br>
On 5/19/2016 4:35 PM, Gordonjcp wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Binocular microscope is great, cheapy USB camera<br>
<br>
> microscope is perfectly okay (we use them at work<br>
> when I take *my* binocular microscope home), decent<br>
> non-magnetic tweezers and a good soldering iron with<br>
<br>
not too small a point.<br>
<br>
<br>
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