Do an ebay search for "Global Specialties 503" or "203". They are
both proto boards that regularly sell for a fraction of their 300$ list
price. <br><br><div><span class="gmail_quote">On 10/17/05, <b class="gmail_sendername">Tim Daugard</b> <<a href="mailto:daugard@sprintmail.com">daugard@sprintmail.com</a>> wrote:</span><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
<br>----- Original Message -----<br>From: "Cole Groff" <<a href="mailto:chonald@gmail.com">chonald@gmail.com</a>><br>><br>> Do any of you guys recommend a solderless powered prototyping<br>> breadboard out there?
<br>><br><a href="http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/protofx6.gif">http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/protofx6.gif</a><br><br>This picture reminded me. For an early use, I had soldered header<br>pins to a 9V battery snap this means If I wanted to do a circuit
<br>powered from a 9V battery, I could just plug the battery into the<br>power bus (or into two rows) to use as power. I alos have a set with<br>three pins and two battery snapd for bi-polar power.<br><br>I kept a weak battery around so that I could see what happens when
<br>the battery runs down.<br><br><br>If you mount the far as backing the plastic proto boards on<br>something, make sure it win't flrs. I had one of the expensive RS<br>ones they sold mounted on a metal plate. The adhesive they used
<br>pulled the backing off and the pins out when the metal flexed and<br>bent. If you DIY use something that wont flex.<br><br>Tim Daugard<br>AG4GZ 30.4078N 86.6227W Alt: 12 feet above MSL<br><a href="http://home.sprintmail.com/~daugard/synth.htm">
http://home.sprintmail.com/~daugard/synth.htm</a><br><br>Still playing with an 1802 computer (and hurricane repairs, and<br>remodeling.) I'm almost ready to use the 1802 to control a PROM<br>programmer I'm building so that I can use newer processors so that I
<br>can build a wave table. I STILL PREFER ANALOG.<br><br></blockquote></div><br>