[sdiy] [semi-ot] making patch cables with thin console cable.

[Jimmy Moore]

Thanks for the advice and validation haha

I'm looking at the np3x series, so I think that's the right direction.

On Sat, Sep 5, 2026, 12:18 PM brianw <brianw at audiobanshee.com> wrote:

> ... and beware that even high-quality brands like Neutrik have cheap
> alternatives in their product line, so make sure you select an appropriate
> part.
>
> For one project, I found the cheapest Neutrik 1/4" plugs that I could find
> on Mouser, and I definitely would not go that cheap again. There were no
> actual problems, but the shells were not conductive, and thus do not extend
> the shield over the solder points. I got what I paid for, and realized that
> I should have paid just a little more.
>
> My understanding is that brands do not want to lose 100% of the budget
> market, so they offer a bottom-of-the-line family of products that they can
> sell to folks on a budget. That makes business sense. Like I said, no
> problems - the 1/4" jacks worked - but I would have preferred something a
> little nicer. Since then, I go to the Neutrik web site and read about the
> different product families to make sure I pick the appropriate ones.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On Sep 5, 2026, at 10:31 AM, Michael E Caloroso wrote:
> > I have built my own audio cables for 40+ years.
> >
> > I strongly recommend not skimping on cheap plugs for patchbay, console,
> or rack wiring.
> >
> > You want Switchcraft or Neutrik.  Beware of "look-alike" counterfeits.
> Accept nothing less than the real thing.
> >
> > Cheap plugs WILL malfunction, and you do not want the aggravation of
> chasing down a faulty connection in a rats' nest of cabling, especially
> when a recording is in progress!
> >
> > I made the mistake of buying "switchcraft-like" economy plugs from a
> supplier.  1/3 of the plugs were defective out of the bag because the
> solder lug for the tip or ring were shorted to the sleeve when they were
> assembled, rendering them useless.  Also when the metal shell worked loose,
> it would rest on the sleeve and other lugs, resulting in an intermittent
> short causing loss of audio.  Even with the internal plastic insulator
> intact.  The metal shells just would not stay in place once fully
> assembled.  That was a BITCH to hunt down.  I had to add insulating tape
> over the lugs on ALL of the cables I built that used those plugs.
> >
> > You got best quality cable.  Use best quality plugs.
> >
> > BTW Switchcraft makes plugs with extra large inserts in the shells for
> large diameter cable.
> >
> > MC
> >
> > On Sat, Sep 5, 2026 at 1:12 PM Mike Bryant wrote:
> >>
> >>      • I suspect the recommendation will be heat shrink tubing +
> neutrik jacks
> >>
> >> If you are using the best cable, why would you not use the best jacks ?
> 🙂
> >> From: Jimmy Moore
> >> Sent: 05 September 2026 17:44
> >>
> >> I got a great deal on a spool of mogami w2944, so time to revive the
> patchbay project.   This is console wire, so has a very thin OD of about
> 2.54mm:
> >>
> >> https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/console/#gsc.tab=0
> >>
> >> I foresee this causing some challenges with audio jacks that are
> designed around much beefier wire.
> >>
> >> I'm curious if anyone had suggestions for preferred (1/4") connectors
> for this kind of thing.  I have a samson S-patch plus, so no TT or bantam
> jacks for me just yet.
> >>
> >> I suspect the recommendation will be heat shrink tubing + neutrik
> jacks. I would love to hear what you think.
> >>
> >> jimmy
> >>
> >> PS: if anyone has some spare jacks or heat shrink you would be
> interested to sell, let me know!
> >
>
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