[sdiy] Synth Panel Window Adhesive

[cheater cheater]

You have to use special glue for acrylic and perspex, because normal
glue will make it go cloudy or brittle (pick your poison). There's
usually a primer ("activator") compound (it might be a spray-on) and
then the glue compound and then sometimes there's a third compound you
put on the glue once it's been applied.

With many of these glues you don't want a lot of pressure. That's only
really done with wood glue for holding wooden furniture together.

If you want that special glue, you'll have to find a supplier for car
body work. They have the best, least expensive kinds usually, but the
tubes are still super expensive, so keep that in mind.

Two sided tape is super cheap on the other hand - but obviously it
shows and it isn't permanent.

On Thu, Feb 29, 2024 at 10:47 AM dh at atoav.com <dh at atoav.com> wrote:
>
> Whichever glue you use the most important things about gluing are:
>
> - area of the contact surface: should not be too small. What is too
> small depends on the glue and on the materials involved. Tests help.
>
> - roughness of the contact surface: What is the right amount depends on
> the glue and the material involved. Tests help.
>
> - the contact surfaces need to be absolutely clean. Wear a fresh pair of
> nitril gloves, clean the surfaces throughly with isopropanol
>
> - after glueing clamp stuff down to A) keep it in place and B) apply a
> perpendicular force to the glue joint which thins out the glue layer,
> which in turn makes the joint stronger
>
> - contact surface without glue is usless contact surface. Use a glue
> spreader/spatula to spread the glue thin over the whole area. If you
> apply pressure after, you typically don't need a lot of glue. Think
> about how you would add thermal paste to a CPU if that helps.
>
> - if one of the contact surfaces is a painted/laminated surface: with
> enough force this lamination might be pulled or sheared off. Consider
> sanding the surface before gluing
>
> The rest depends on the type of glue used, some mentioned epoxyd, which
> should work, but I'd probably go for a more elastic joint here, e.g.
> silicone based glues. Cyanoacrylate would work too, but is not as elastic.
>
> TL;DR: clean the contact areas, make sure they are not too small, make
> sure the contact areas are indeed filled with glue.
>
> Cheers,
> atoav
>
> On 2024-02-29 10:20, Mike Bryant wrote:
> > I get the perspex made with a lip on all four sides, then apply a thin
> > film of epoxy all around and push into the whole.  But even with a
> > protective film, if you get the epoxy leaking onto the visible area the
> > window is scrap.
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > *From:* Synth-diy <synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org> on behalf of
> > ackolonges fds via Synth-diy <synth-diy at synth-diy.org>
> > *Sent:* 29 February 2024 03:25
> > *To:* Synth-Diy mailing list <synth-diy at synth-diy.org>
> > *Subject:* [sdiy] Synth Panel Window Adhesive
> > Hi Synth-DIYers!
> >
> > I have a question that might be a little bit OT, but I was wondering,
> > for those of you that have built synth panels with perspex / acrylic
> > windows, what did you use to hold the window in place, and how well did
> > it work?
> >
> > I've built a few things now that used 7-segment style LED displays, and
> > I've put rectangular holes in their powder coated metal panels, laser
> > cut some tinted perspex to size and tried things like pressure fitting
> > (too easily dislodged, or broken while being pushed in) and glues, which
> > are a bit messy and hard to avoid having some of the glue showing up on
> > the front panel...
> >
> > I'd love to hear your experience and any solutions you may have found!
> >
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