[sdiy] SSI2130

Pete Hartman pete.hartman at gmail.com
Sun Sep 20 01:17:49 CEST 2020


Me either.  That's why I want something a fab house can assemble. :).  I
can solder the legs in all day long....

On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 6:12 PM Benjamin Tremblay via Synth-diy <
synth-diy at synth-diy.org> wrote:

> OMG now I know I’m really old.
> That’s amazing and I would not dare to try to assemble that.
>
> Benjamin Tremblay
>
> On Sep 19, 2020, at 5:11 PM, James Coplin <james at ticalun.net> wrote:
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> Yup. Id buy those with the wider format.
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> James
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> On Sep 19, 2020, at 2:45 PM, David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca> wrote:
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>> DItto -- what Oren said.  Make the pins 0.6" apart.  I'd buy that.
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>> ------------------------------
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>> *From:* Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org] *On Behalf Of
>> *Oren Leavitt
>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 19, 2020 11:24 AM
>> *To:* synth-diy at synth-diy.org
>> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] SSI2130
>>
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>> Looks nice!
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>> Why not just go with a 0.6 inch wide DIP format? It'll fit a standard 0.6
>> wide DIP socket and you'll have a little more wiggle room.
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>> It's a VCOduino!
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>> - Oren
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>> On 9/19/20 12:40 PM, Pete Hartman wrote:
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>> I was inspired last night to take a crack at the idea of a breakout that
>> could have the chip pre-soldered.  I don't normally do a lot of work with
>> finer pitch SMD so I found I had to use fairly fine traces to route to the
>> pins with the chip rotated (which seemed to make the most sense, since
>> going to a DIP form factor).  Necking in KiCad is not something I've
>> mastered and I didn't spend a lot of time when I found it wasn't working
>> the way I thought the descriptions online said it should.  PS: not looking
>> for a debate about CAD packages ;).
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>> I'm curious if any of the more experienced would have any opinions they'd
>> care to offer?  Full disclosure: the intent is for this to be sold as a DIY
>> tool, so if providing advice for what might become a low volume commercial
>> product is a concern, by all means, don't feel like you are obligated to
>> comment.
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>> First the images.  I'm also sending pictures to the list for the first
>> time, so if for some reason this doesn't work, I can always throw links to
>> my google drive up pretty quickly.
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>> [image: Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.05.02PM.png]
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>> [image: Screen Shot 2020-09-19 at Sep 19 12.06.12PM.png]
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>> I liked the idea of having the regulator(s) on board, so I dug around to
>> find a couple that seemed likely.  I did find that -V regulators were
>> significantly more expensive (Q100 of both of these are under $0.30,  Q10,
>> and I didn't look for Q100, of even a pretty basic - regulator was on the
>> order of $3.00).  Since the chips tolerates up to -18V I decided to forego
>> a regulator on the negative rail.
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>> The V+ equivalent pin feeds the TLV1117-50, and that 5V feeds the
>> MCP1700-25 as well as the actual V+ pin on the chip.  I figured someone
>> might want to use their own different 2.5V reference so I put a normally
>> closed set of jumper pads that could be cut if preferred (like the USB
>> power on a teensy, for example).  This also allows you to take the 2.5V
>> reference *off* the pin if you wanted to use it for expo scaling, or
>> through zero, etc.  Sitting here this morning I am thinking it might be a
>> good idea to provide an extra pin at the top edge so the 5V reference could
>> be treated similarly.  I don't think I could do exactly the same thing
>> because there has to be some way for the higher voltage to get onto the
>> breakout.
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>> All the caps are 0603, which is about as small as I'd want to hand
>> solder; although I do not intend to hand solder it myself, I figured
>> leaving the option open even if just for prototyping seemed like a good
>> idea.  Same idea behind using "handsolder" footprints for the regulator &
>> reference.
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>> It's half an inch between the rows of pins and .7" wide by 1.7" long
>> total.
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>> Thoughts?
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>> Thanks!
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>> Pete
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>>
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>>
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