[sdiy] Starting Point?

[john slee]

I would also say, in support of the bench power supply (doesn't really
matter what brand/model, as long as it has at least two channels and has
adjustable current limiting and a dual-tracking mode) as an early purchase,
that it can save you from errors.

My process when I've finished assembling something is to

0. check that the supply rails aren't shorted to each other or, in a
split-supply device, to GND

1. check all device orientation, including transistors and diodes

2. power it up on the bench PSU with a fairly low current limit. If I know
the expected draw, I'll set that, otherwise I'll start at 20mA or similar
for a typical Euro module. That way if I've goofed horribly somewhere the
consequences won't be dire and the PSU display will tell me

IIRC other folks have posted similar processes here over the years,
probably more comprehensive than mine. These checks don't take much time
and they can identify problems before they're fatal problems

John

On Sat, 10 Oct 2020 at 12:22, john slee <indigoid at oldcorollas.org> wrote:

> +1 for the Hakko FR301, though they're not exactly a cheap item for a
> newbie.
>
> My first "extravagant" purchases were a Rigol DP832 power supply and B+K
> 5491B bench meter and I have regretted them for precisely zero seconds
> since. I have a handheld multimeter also but much prefer the bench meter.
>
> I have a bunch of VCOs in my "to build" queue and I'm keen to try remote
> control of both the power supply and multimeter (in frequency counter mode)
> together for setting the control scale: stepping the control voltage in 1V
> increments, reading back the frequency and showing on my laptop how far off
> each octave is. If I can make it work I'll share here :-)
>
> John
>
> On Sat, 10 Oct 2020 at 11:09, David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca> wrote:
>
>> As far as tools, a good pair of needlenose pliers, a good wire-stripper
>> and
>> cutter, and a good wire snipper are essential.  I also have an old-school
>> pin crimper which is essential for me.
>>
>> My preferred DVM is a little $25 Victor VC921
>> (https://testmeterpro.com/victor-vc921/)-- I have two of them, so I can
>> use
>> one to measure voltage which I use the other to measure frequency.  I have
>> benchmarked it against a Fluke frequency meter, and it is every bit as
>> accurate.  I have a more expensive DVM, but I haven't used it for many
>> years.  The battery has probably leaked all over it.
>>
>> My oscilloscope is a very old Tektronic 2230 that I was given by a
>> colleague
>> at school when he bought a newer one.  I believe these can be picked up
>> for
>> less than $300 and they are real workhorses.
>>
>> My soldering station is a cheapo Chinese one with adjustable temperature.
>> It works well.  I've never had much problem with it.  I replaced the
>> pencil
>> once, and replaced the tip once more, but the base is solid.
>>
>> I got a Hakko FR301 desoldering gun for Christmas a few years ago, and
>> that
>> thing is golden.  That's the one "extravagant" thing I have, and its a
>> life
>> changer.  If you only do the occasional part removal, though, then the
>> cheapo Chinese blue-and-yellow-plastic plungomatic is probably sufficient,
>> and they're about $5.
>>
>> For a power supply, I simply bring a power cable out from my modular
>> (which
>> sits on my workbench), so my bench supply is the same Power-One +/-15V
>> supply in my modular.  It's pretty convenient.
>>
>> Honestly, I've spent less than $200 on tools, many of which I've had for
>> 12
>> years or more.  I've done a crapload of electronics with those simple
>> tools.
>>
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>
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