[sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly but surely ..
Vladimir Pantelic
vladoman at gmail.com
Mon Nov 9 22:46:01 CET 2020
subminis work fine if you put one of the two washers on the collar before
mounting, perfect 10mm height.
On 2020-11-09 22:19, info synthcube.com wrote:
> Switches are the main issue here--- pots and jacks work well together, but most
> of the ‘standard’ DIY switches don’t seem to work from a height standpoint---
> neither the mini toggles, nor the submini toggles—and rotaries- fuhgeddaboudit
>
> *From:* ColinMuirDorward <colindorward at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 9, 2020 5:15 PM
> *To:* David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca>
> *Cc:* Dave Brown <davebr at modularsynthesis.com>; info synthcube.com
> <info at synthcube.com>; jpdesroc at oricom.ca; tom at electricdruid.net; john slee
> <indigoid at oldcorollas.org>; Synth-diy at synth-diy.org
> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project.. slowly
> but surely ..
>
> Is anyone using Song Huei R1212N-M
> <http://www.song-huei.com/exec/product.php?mod=show&cid=58&pid=R1212N-MetalShaft&lg=E>?
>
> Vertical mount potentiometer, 10mm rise, mechanical mounting points, A, B, C, W
> tapers available, rated for 15000 cycles.
>
> 10mm rise puts them in the same family as the usual PCB-mount eurorack minijacks.
>
> The missing link for me is a nice group of switches to choose from. I'm using
> more shallow (8mm rise/) subminiature SPST toggles right now, which fit well,
> but they are not really good quality feeling.
>
> Colin
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 12:49 PM David G Dixon <dixon at mail.ubc.ca
> <mailto:dixon at mail.ubc.ca>> wrote:
>
> That's a good idea if you have the panel at hand. Sometimes, I am making
> PCBs for a client and the actual panel is in a different country.
>
> For the pots I use, the solder tabs tend to bend slightly as needed to
> adjust to the correct spacing. In any case, I lay out all my panels and my
> PCBs on a strict 0.1" spacing grid, so things generally slip into their
> respective holes with ease. The most unforgiving parts are switches with
> two or more rows of tabs, such as DPDT switches. These must be aligned
> correctly.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Dave Brown [mailto:davebr at modularsynthesis.com
> <mailto:davebr at modularsynthesis.com>]
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 12:08 PM
> *To:* 'David G Dixon'; 'info synthcube.com <http://synthcube.com>';
> jpdesroc at oricom.ca <mailto:jpdesroc at oricom.ca>; tom at electricdruid.net
> <mailto:tom at electricdruid.net>
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org <mailto:Synth-diy at synth-diy.org>'
> *Subject:* RE: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
> [*CAUTION:* Non-UBC Email]
>
> I do this for all panel components – pots, jacks, switches, and LEDs. I’ll
> tack solder just one lead so I can get the panel on and everything aligned.
> Typically the pots aren’t quite at the right height and this puts stress on
> the phenolic which can crack. Once the panel is on I reflow the jacks,
> pots, and switches. Sometimes I can hear a “pop” as the pot lead relaxes and
> it adjusts to the correct height. I do the LEDs as you described.
>
> Someone once sent me a Buchla 248 with all the switches soldered on with no
> panel. Of course none of them lined up and it is hard to remove the solder
> completely so you can realign. I ended up having to redrill all 35 switch
> holes oversize and file some to fit.
>
>
> Dave
>
> *From:*Synth-diy [mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org
> <mailto:synth-diy-bounces at synth-diy.org>] *On Behalf Of *David G Dixon
> *Sent:* Monday, November 09, 2020 11:43 AM
> *To:* 'info synthcube.com <http://synthcube.com>'; jpdesroc at oricom.ca
> <mailto:jpdesroc at oricom.ca>; tom at electricdruid.net
> <mailto:tom at electricdruid.net>
> *Cc:* 'john slee'; 'Synth-diy at synth-diy.org <mailto:Synth-diy at synth-diy.org>'
> *Subject:* Re: [sdiy] My new Moog 960 sequencer clone module project..
> slowly but surely ..
>
> LEDs can also be a challenge to solder into panel PCBs as they might not be
> at the correct height for poking through the panel. The best way to install
> LEDs is to first install all of the other components, then stuff the
> LED leads into the PCB loosely, then actually attach the panel (with at
> least a few nuts) and push the LEDs into their panel holes while the panel
> sits upsidedown on the bench. In this way, all the LEDs are at the correct
> height. I have also made LED jigs from scraps of PCB material (of which I
> have many pounds!) that bridge two adjacent components.
>
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>
> --
>
> https://www.instagram.com/colinmuirdorward/
>
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>
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